The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
Then we went into the big room, a room of mahogany, and views of lake
and river and sea painted on the panels, which is the room most used by
the people who live in the hotel, where the papers and great arm-chairs
are and where a man can smoke comfortably, and we listened to the
little orchestra and to a young lady who sang us songs sentimental and
songs cheerful until it was time for my nephew to do escort duty in
taking the young lady back to the northern heights where she lives.
LIX
YE OLDE GAMBRINUS
The one thing in the world that the friends of Germany do not tell us
poor Englishmen is to be obtained better in the Fatherland than on this
side of the Channel is things to eat, though of course Munich beer has
been held up to our brewers for generations as an example of what they
should brew. Perhaps it is for this reason that there are fewer German
restaurants in London in comparison with the size of the German colony
than there are French and Italian restaurants in comparison with the
colonies of those countries.
Yet good, simple German cookery is quite excellent of its kind. A
German housewife knows how to make a goose into many delectable dishes
which an English housewife knows nothing of, and the German tarts are
excellent things amongst dishes of pastry.
There are one or two German restaurants in Soho, and Mr Appenrodt in
his restaurants considers the tastes of his fellow-countrymen, but the
best known London restaurant devoted entirely to German and Austrian
cookery is the Olde Gambrinus, in Regent Street, and it was an Italian,
little Oddenino, who appreciated the long-felt want of the Germans in
London and who gave them a restaurant in which they can imagine that
they are once again back in their own country, eating German foods and
drinking German drinks.
The Gambrinus has entrances both in Glasshouse Street and in Regent
Street. The Regent Street entrance echoes the decoration of that of
its big brother, the Imperial Restaurant, a few paces farther along the
street, and its marble pillars and revolving door do not suggest the
entirely German surroundings we are in as soon as we have crossed the
threshold. A comparatively narrow room, panelled half-way up its height
with dark wood and with two rows of tables, is the first portion of the
restaurant we see on entering from Regent Street, and it is here that
those good Germans sit who do not want to eat a meal but wish to drink
their "steins" of beer. Above the panelling on the walls are the heads
of many deer and wild beasts from all parts of the world, and the first
impression that this gives to anyone who does not know the Gambrinus
is that it is a Valhalla for the denizens of some Wonder Zoo. In the
midst of these heads of the wild things of the woods and the plains is
that of a fine dog. No doubt he was the chosen companion of some mighty
hunter, and one hopes that he was not like the rest, a spoil of the
chase.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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