The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
The luncheons provided for golfers in the club-houses of the golf
courses near London was another subject to which I intended to devote
a chapter, and yet another to the excellent luncheons that the racing
clubs, following Sandown's example, provide for their members.
There are roadside and riverside inns that deserve mention besides
those of which I have written.
Many of the large hotels that I have not mentioned deserve attention,
but there is a certain similarity in the _table d'hôte_ meals at all
big hotels nowadays and the difference between the rank and file
of them lies more in their situation and decoration than in their
_cuisine_.
My excuse for paying a vague compliment to the big hotels in bulk will
not hold good with respect to the many small hotels that I have not
mentioned where the cookery is excellent. They at least have, each
one, its distinct individuality. I can only plead that I have been
frightened by their number. Almond's in Clifford Street, Brown's in
Albemarle Street, where M. Peròs is the chef, are two which occur to me
as I write in which I have dined admirably, and I have no doubt that
"Sunny Jim" will make the restaurant of the St James's Palace Hotel a
favourite dining-place.
I feel that I have slighted Oxford Street and Holborn in having merely
nodded as I passed by to some of the many restaurants, some of them
important ones, that are to be found on the road from Prince Albert's
Statue to the Marble Arch. My hope of making amends to them for this
neglect lies in a hope that my book may run into more than one edition.
In the streets that branch off from Shaftesbury Avenue there are
several restaurants for which I should have found room in this
book. The Coventry is one, and the by-ways of Soho teem with little
eating-houses waiting to be discovered and to become prosperous and
to possess globes of electric light and rows of Noah's ark trees in
green tubs. I am not such a hardy explorer as I used to be, but I have
gone through some terrible times in experimenting on some of the little
restaurants in Soho--the ones that had better remain undiscovered.
Some of my correspondents have asked me why I only write of places that
I can conscientiously praise, and why I do not describe my failures.
My answer to this is that it is not fair to condemn any restaurant,
however humble it may be, on one trial, and that, when I have been
given an indifferent meal anywhere, I never go back again to see
whether I shall be as badly treated on a second occasion. I prefer
to consign to oblivion the stories I could tell of bad eggs and rank
butter and cold potatoes, stringy meat and skeleton fowls.
It is so much better for one's digestion to think of pleasant things
than to brood over horrors.
Adieu, or rather, I trust, au revoir.
* * * * *
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