The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
Hors d'œuvre.
Consommé Rossolnick.
Crème aux huîtres.
Truite de rivière Dona Louise.
Selle d'Agneau Mascotte.
Pommes nouvelles.
Poularde du Surrey à la broche.
Salade.
Parfait au moka.
Friandises.
Dessert.
It was a very well-selected, well-served dinner. Had we chosen the
half-guinea dinner we should have had an addition to this menu
of _cailles à la Grecque_ and _chou de mer, sauce vierge_. The
_Rossolnick_, with its flavour of cucumber, was excellent, the trout
were fresh and firm, and the Surrey fowl as plump as any foreigner
from Mans. M. Auguste Pannier, the chef of to-day, is worthy of the
great men who have preceded him in the kitchen of the East Room. And
not only have there been great cooks, but great managers as well at
the Criterion, with the East Room as the particular object of their
care. Oddenino, Mantell, Gerard, who all moved on to other posts, were
predecessors of M. Emile Campenhaut, the manager of to-day, as was
also M. Lefèvre, whose health broke down, but whom I remember as being
an enthusiast on the subject of the art of cookery, a man who brought
plenty of brain power to bear on the subject of delicate food. I think
that the best of the many dinners I have eaten _à deux_ in the East
Room was one ordered in consultation with him, and I subjoin it as a
good specimen of an East Room _à la carte_ feast:
Caviar.
Consommé à la Diane.
Filets de sole aux délices.
Suprêmes de volaille grillés.
Carottes nouvelles à la crème.
Laitues braisées en cocotte.
Cailles à la Sainte-Alliance.
Salade de chicorée frisée.
Croûtes à la Caume.
Soufflé glacé à la mandarine.
The _caille à la Sainte-Alliance_, in imitation of Brillat Savarin's
_faisan à la Sainte-Alliance_, consisted of a truffle in an ortolan,
the ortolan being in the quail. The _Croûte Caume_ is an admirable
banana dish in which the tastes of the banana and pine-apple and
apricot and kirsch all mingle.
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