The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
The East Room is, of course, only one of the many restaurant-rooms
in the great stone building. Immediately under the East Room are the
Marble Restaurant and the grill-room. The Marble Restaurant, in old
days, when men of position did not think it undignified to stand at a
bar and drink brandy and soda, was the Long Bar, and a wonderful sight
this bar, running the whole length of the building, used to be at
midnight, crowded with Londoners of all the leisured classes and with
a score or more of good-looking barmaids in black behind the bar. When
the habits of the men of London began to change, and the Long Bar did
not draw so many devotees, the firm of Spiers and Pond was not quite
convinced for some time that the "palmy" days of the bars were gone,
and they made the Long Bar one of the most beautiful saloons in London,
decorating it with marbles and inlay of Venetian glass. That beautiful
saloon is now the Marble Restaurant, in which a five-shilling _table
d'hôte_ meal is served, and where singers on Sundays discourse music to
the diners.
The American Bar had its period of great success, and in the
grill-room, which formed part of the bar's surroundings, chops and
steaks, unsurpassed anywhere in London, used to be grilled. But
the character of some of the habitués of the American Bar was too
pronouncedly sporting to be altogether satisfactory, and the American
Bar passed away from the front part of the building as the Long Bar
did. There is a buffet now at the Jermyn Street side, but it is no
longer the haunt of the gentlemen who were so overwhelmingly devoted to
sport. The grill-room, without the American Bar, is a very flourishing
section of the Criterion. It differs from most other grill-rooms in
having plenty of sunlight and fresh air, and has this distinctive
feature, that there is an American cook in its kitchen and that
American dishes can always be obtained there even when they are not
on the bill of fare. I have eaten clam broth, terrapin, dry hash,
scalloped sweet potatoes, and Graham pudding, when dining there with
Americans.
The Criterion contains a score of banqueting-rooms, including a
huge one at the top of the house, where a statue of Shakespeare
looks down upon the diners. The West Room, which is now one of the
banqueting-rooms, has been used by the management for many experiments.
For a long time a _Dîner Parisien_ was served there, and as its cost
was only five shillings, and as one got a great deal of very good
food to eat for that sum, I used to patronise it very regularly in my
subaltern days, when a dinner in the East Room could not be budgeted
for. At one time it was given over to the vegetarians, and good-looking
damsels in art clothing brought the diners dishes of nut cutlets and
vegetable steaks; but the nut-eaters did not hold possession of the
room for long.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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