The Grandeur That Was Rome: a survey of Roman culture and civilisationStobart, J. C. (John Clarke)
History
The Grandeur That Was Rome: a survey of Roman culture and civilisation
Stobart, J. C. (John Clarke)
Rome -- Civilization; Rome -- History
The wealthy Romans have a name for abominable luxury and gluttony. As
to the general question of its influence in destroying the morality of
Rome I have already ventured to express disbelief in the popular view.
From all that we read, it does not appear that the ordinary Roman was
naturally addicted to intemperance either in eating or drinking. The
praise of wine is with Horace a literary pose; personally he had a
poor head and a poor stomach. The Italian is not, and probably never
was a great natural eater or drinker judged by northern standards. But
rhetoricians and satirists have delighted to dwell upon the immensity
of Roman dinner-parties which often lasted all day and included a
hideous series of curious and exotic dainties. This was the form
which, in default of any nobler ideals, wealth at Rome had chosen for
its display. Time hung heavily on this slave-tended aristocracy: to
dine from dawn to daylight was one of the ways of killing it. So the
guests reclined on their couches, dancers jigged before them, musicians
played, occasionally a tumbler or a tight-rope walker would appear, in
literary households a slave would read philosophy; and all the time
the soft-footed slaves were coming and going with dishes of strange
morsels gathered from the ends of the earth, and rare wines from the
four corners of the globe. A dish of nightingales’ tongues is not
the sort of thing to please one who is a _gourmet_ by conviction or
natural taste. Eating was for most of these poor starved imaginations
the only form of culture they understood. It was, however, conducted
with tremendous ceremony. There was a “tricliniarch” to marshal his
“decuries” of slaves as each dish came into the room. There was a
special “structor” to arrange the dishes, a special “analecta” to pick
up the fragments that the diners dropped. Carving was a science with
various branches, as in old England, and the skilful carver had his
scheme of gesticulations for each kind of dish. There was another slave
specially appointed to cry out the name and quality of each _plat_.
In addition to these every guest had his own footman standing behind
his couch. The most characteristic and the most unpleasant feature of
a Roman banquet was the manner in which the diners assisted nature to
provide them with an appetite. Even Julius Cæsar “took his vomit” both
before and after his dinner-party with Cicero.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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