The Great Frozen Sea: A Personal Narrative of the Voyage of the "Alert"Markham, Albert Hastings, Sir
History
The Great Frozen Sea: A Personal Narrative of the Voyage of the "Alert"
Markham, Albert Hastings, Sir
Alert (Sloop : 1856-1895); Arctic regions; Nares, George S. (George Strong), 1831-1915
There is much similarity about the various Danish settlements in
Greenland. The houses are of the same size and colour, and generally of
about the same number, whilst all possess their little church, their
storehouse, and their cooperage. The settlement is very prettily
situated on the northern side of the largest of a group of many islands
of all sizes. These are of the same metamorphic formation, and possess
a more luxuriant vegetation than we had hitherto seen. The island is
covered with numerous small lakes and ponds, and is extremely marshy and
swampy. The difficulty of walking, without sinking up to the ankles in a
bog, is very great.
The population of Egedesminde, which is the most southern settlement in
the Inspectorate of North Greenland, is about one hundred and thirty
souls, including the Danes, who with the Governor and his family number
about twelve. The entire population of North Greenland is about four
thousand three hundred.
The boggy substance, like peat, is dug up and stacked during the summer,
and when dried is very generally used as fuel. The chief employment of
the inhabitants is, as at the other settlements, that of collecting
skins and blubber. Reindeer are obtained on the mainland, but they are
not plentiful.
The Governor, Mr. Boldroe, was good enough to present us with a fine
large haunch of venison; but, curious to relate, when served up, it had
an unmistakeable taste and odour of musk! Our scorbutic patients, who
were at this time nearly all convalescent, benefited largely from the
quantities of fresh fish, principally cod, obtainable at this place.
On the morning of the 2nd of October, having received on board the
amount of coal promised, we bade our kind friends farewell, and steamed
away amidst the usual firing of guns and dipping of colours. The
stoppages at these two civilized places were very pleasant breaks to us,
after our long absence from society of any description, except our own,
and were not regretted by any one. Indeed, the kindness and true
hospitality extended to us by our Danish friends in the different
settlements in Northern Greenland will long be remembered with feelings
of gratitude and pleasure.
From the date of leaving this our last port until our arrival at
Valentia, we experienced very tempestuous weather. Strong head winds
were in constant attendance, and the ship's general state was being
"battened down and under close-reefed topsails." Under these
circumstances our daily rate of progress was remarkably slow, and on
some days we found that we had actually increased our distance from home
instead of having lessened it. Few on board had before experienced a
longer continuance of really stormy weather. From the severe buffeting
we received, our rudder, already crippled, was reduced to such a state
as to be absolutely useless, the rudder-head being almost wrenched off,
and we were obliged to steer the ship during the remainder of the voyage
by means of the rudder pendants.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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