The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: London to YorkHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: London to York
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A1 Road (England and Scotland); England -- Social life and customs; Great Britain -- Description and travel
Here we have passed the little Rutlandshire village of Stretton on the
right, which obtained its name of “Street-town” from having been on the
ancient road called the Ermine Way. Here we come again into
Lincolnshire.
For some twenty miles the Great North Road runs through this broad
county, the land of the “yellow-bellies,” as Lincolnshire folk are named,
from the frogs and eels that inhabit their fens and marshes. North and
South Witham, giving a name to Witham Common, lie unseen, off to the
left, and the once famous old “Black Bull” stands, as it always has
stood, solitary beside the road, out of sight from any other house. It
consists of two separate buildings, at right angles to one another and
erected at different times. The original house is a structure of
rag-stone, placed a little way back from the road, and facing it. The
second building, which bears a more imposing architectural character, and
with its handsome elevation of red brick and stone, bears witness to the
once extensive business of the “Black Bull,” stands facing south, with
its gable-end to the road, thus forming two sides of a courtyard. Long
ranges of stables extend to the rear. The place is now in use as a
farmhouse and hunting-box, and a screen of laurels and other evergreen
shrubs is planted on the site of the old coach-drive. Sturtle, who kept
the house in the old days, is gathered to his fathers, and the railway
whistle sounds across country, where the guards’ horns once aroused the
echoes of Morkery Woods or Spittle Gorse.
How different the outlook now from the time when Sir Walter Scott made
entries in his _Journal_. “Old England,” he writes, from his hotel at
Grantham, “is no changeling. Things seem much the same. One race of
red-nosed innkeepers are gone, and their widows, eldest sons, or head
waiters exercise hospitality in their room, with the same bustle and
importance. The land, however, is much better ploughed; straight ridges
everywhere adopted in place of the old circumflex of twenty years ago.
Three horses, however, or even four, are often seen in a plough, yoked
one before the other. Ill habits do not go out at once.”
A few years later, and these things, which had changed so little, were
revolutionised. The railway carried all the traffic and the roads were
deserted, the “red-nosed innkeepers” so rarely seeing a guest, that when
a stray one arrived they almost fell on his shoulder and wept.
Agriculture, too, converted even Witham Common into a succession of
fertile fields, and thus banished wayfaring romance to the pages of
history or of sensation novels.
[Picture: House, formerly the “Black Bull,” Witham Common]
XXIV
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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