The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: London to YorkHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: London to York
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A1 Road (England and Scotland); England -- Social life and customs; Great Britain -- Description and travel
[Picture: Newark Castle]
There was a certain Dame Eleanor Disney, who, to do honour to this
strange kind of king, came, splendidly dressed, with her husband, Sir
Henry, to one of the receptions. James’s eye lighted upon all this
finery, and his frugal mind was shocked. “Wha,” he asked, “be that lady
wi’ a lairdship to her bock?”
But the most stirring of Newark’s historic days were yet to come. Newark
to the last was loyal to Charles the First. Three times was the town
besieged by the Parliament, and never taken. All the inhabitants armed
and did excellent service, making sorties and capturing troops of
Parliamentary horse; and had not the royal cause failed elsewhere, Newark
must have emerged, triumphant, at the end. But at last all that remained
were some few outlying garrisons throughout the country. Newark was
especially commanded by the king to discontinue a hopeless resistance,
and accordingly the town laid down its arms in 1646. It was then that
the castle was ruined.
It is a highly picturesque ruin to-day, and lacking nothing in itself of
grandeur, only needs a more effective site. As it stands, only slightly
elevated above the river and the surrounding levels, this historic castle
has not the advantages that belong to fortresses like Ludlow and Harlech,
perched on their rocky heights. But it has done its duty and still
serves to give a note of dignity to Newark town, as one approaches it by
the long straight levels of the road from the north. It looks much the
same to-day as when Rowlandson made his sketch of it, with the coach
dashing over the bridge, more than a hundred years ago; the projecting
Tudor oriel windows still looking forth upon the sullen tide from the
more ancient walls, their crumbling stones scarce more decayed than then.
The old wooden bridge, however, that formerly spanned the Devon, was
pulled down and rebuilt in 1775.
The great glory of Newark is its beautiful church, with that soaring
spire which is visible for miles away, before the town itself is
glimpsed. Not so tall as Grantham spire, it is as beautiful in its
simpler style, and the church is better placed in the town than that of
Grantham. Especially striking is the view across the great market-place,
the grey Early English and Decorated spire, with its numerous
belfry-lights, and the fine windows and bold arcading of the tower
forming a splendidly effective contrast with the seventeenth and
eighteenth century red-brick houses facing the square. Newark and
Grantham spires are really the products of an old-time rivalry between
the two towns. Either town is satisfied that it possesses the best, and
so the peace is kept throughout the ages.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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