The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: London to YorkHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: London to York
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A1 Road (England and Scotland); England -- Social life and customs; Great Britain -- Description and travel
“Scarthing Moor” is a name of somewhat terrifying sound; but, as with all
the “moors” met with on the Great North Road, enclosure and cultivation
have entirely changed its character, and the “moor” is just a stretch of
fields undistinguishable from the surrounding country. It leads
presently to the little town of Tuxford-in-the-Clay, approached up a
steep rise passing under the bridge of the Lincolnshire and East Coast
Railway, and in view of Tuxford’s Great Northern Station, away on the
right, perched on a windy and uncomfortable-looking ridge. A red rash of
recent brick cottages has broken out at the foot of the rise, but Tuxford
itself, on the crest of the hill, seems unchanged since coaching days,
except that the traffic which then enlivened it has gone. It is a gaunt,
lifeless place, in spite of its three railway stations, and stands where
the roads cross on the height, and the church, the “Newcastle Arms,”
another inn which arrogates the title of “The Hotel,” and the private
houses and shops of the decayed town face a wide open street, and all
shiver in company. But Tuxford has seen gorgeous sights in its time.
Witness the gay and lengthy cavalcade that “lay” here in the July of
1503, when the Princess Margaret was on her way to her marriage with the
king of Scotland. The princess stayed at the “Crown,” demolished in 1587
by one of the storms which hill-top Tuxford knows so well, and leaving us
the poorer by one ancient hostelry. Not that it would have survived to
this day had there been no storm, for the town itself was destroyed by
fire at a much later date, in 1702.
The “Newcastle Arms” is one of those old houses built for the reception
of many and wealthy travellers in the Augustan age of the road, and is by
consequence many sizes too large for present needs, so that a portion of
the house is set apart for offices quite unconnected with hotel business.
Even the roomy old church away on the other side of the broad road seems
on too large a scale for Tuxford, as it is, and the stone effigies of the
Longvilliers and the mouldy hatchments of later families hanging on the
walls of its bare chapels tell a tale of vanished greatness. There is a
curious and clumsy carving in this church, representing the martyrdom of
St. Lawrence. The Saint is shown on his gridiron (which resembles
nothing so much as a ladder) and wears a pleased expression, as though he
rather liked the process of being grilled, while one tormentor is turning
him and another blowing up the fire with a pair of bellows.
After the church, the old red-brick grammar-school, founded by “Carolo
Read” in 1669, is the most interesting building in Tuxford. “What God
hath built, let no man destroy,” says the inscription over the entrance,
placed there, no doubt, by the donor with a vivid recollection of the
destruction wrought in the Civil War of some twenty years before.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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