The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: London to YorkHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: London to York
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A1 Road (England and Scotland); England -- Social life and customs; Great Britain -- Description and travel
Riccall, and the country between it and York, should therefore be
interesting, as the scene of the earlier of these invasions. Aside from
the village flows the Ouse, deep in its channel and navigable for barges,
than which the Norwegian ships were not much larger; but it could not in
these days harbour a fleet, even of these primitive transports. The
village itself bears nothing on its face telling of great events, and is
of a placid dulness, a character shared by Escrick and Deighton, on the
way to York; the road itself gradually becoming an abomination of
desolate fields until the village of Gate Fulford is reached. The Great
North Road is a businesslike highway. It goes as direct as may be to its
destination, and gets there quite regardless of scenery or interest to
right or left. Thus, although Escrick Park is reputed to be a demesne of
great beauty, and the village of Naburn, lying hidden off the road, is a
typical old English village actually boasting a maypole, all the
traveller along the road perceives is an unromantic vista of
cabbage-fields and other necessary but uninspiring domestic vegetables,
through a haze of a particularly beastly kind of black dust peculiar to
the last few miles of the way into York. Fulford itself is no fit herald
of a cathedral city. A wide street, the terminus of a tramway, a
mile-long row of cottages, a would-be Gothic church; here you have it.
Before you, by degrees, York unfolds itself, past the military barracks
and nondescript, but always disappointing, streets, until, emerging from
Fishergate, the ancient city, free from suburban excrescences, opens out,
with the grim castle in front, and the Ouse and Skeldergate Bridge to the
left. The so-called “London Road” lies away beyond the Ouse, its name
referring to the Doncaster, Ferrybridge, Sherburn, and Tadcaster route
taken by some of the old-time coaches. By that route York is most
romantically entered, across Knavesmire, where York’s martyrs, felons,
and traitors were done to death in the old days, and where the racecourse
now runs; coming to the walled city through Micklegate, the finest of all
the mediæval defensible gateways which are York’s especial glory. By the
Selby route, through Gate Fulford and along Fishergate, we seem to slink
in by the back door; through Micklegate we follow in the steps of those
who have marched with armed hosts at their heels, and have entered with
the unquestioned right of conquerors. Thus came the young Duke of York
at the head of his victorious army, after the crowning victory of Towton;
the first thing to meet his gaze his father’s head, fixed on the topmost
turret, and crowned in mockery with a paper crown by the fierce
Lancastrians under whose swords he had fallen at the battle of Wakefield,
three months before. Filial piety could not in those times rest content
with removing the head from its shameful eminence, and so the Duke caused
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account