The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to EdinburghHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to Edinburgh
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A1 Road (England and Scotland); England -- Social life and customs; Great Britain -- Description and travel
ALNWICK is a town with a great past and a somnolent present. There are
yawns at every turn, echoes with every footfall, and grass growing
unbidden in the streets. But there are forces of elemental power at
Alnwick, little though the stranger suspects them. There have of late
years been periods of storm and stress in the columns of the _Alnwick
Gazette_, for instance, respecting the local water-supply, which have
drawn forth inappropriately fiery letters from correspondents, together
with many mixed metaphors. How is this for impassioned writing?—“The
retributive forces of well-balanced justice have, after a dead ebb,
returned with a swelling tide, and overtaken the arrogative policy of the
freeholders.” But this is nothing to the following striking figure of
“the arm of scandalous jobbery steeped to the lips in perfidious
dishonour;” a delightful literary image unsurpassed in Ireland itself; or
“another hydra of expense arising phoenix-like from the ashes of
misgovernment.” Did the word “hydrant,” we wonder, suggest this last
period? Is the dulness of Alnwick due to the decay following the
corruption hinted at? Perhaps, for, as this publicist next inquires,
“How could anything symbolical of greatness, wrapped with ropes of sand,
ever and for aye, flourish like the green bay-tree?” Ah! how? It is a
difficult question to answer, and so we will leave the question at that.
Alnwick, of course, derives its name from its situation on the romantic
Aln: the “wick,” or village on that river. The name is kin to that of
many other “wicks,” “weeks,” and “wykes” in England, and has its fellows
in such places as High Wycombe; Wykeham (now spelt Wickham) in Hampshire,
whence came William of Wykeham; the village of Week, near Winchester; and
in the town named simply Wick, in the north of Scotland. Alnwick in
these times is a place of a certain grim and lowering picturesqueness.
Its grey stone houses are at one with the greyness of the Northumbrian
skies, and a general air of barren stoniness impresses the traveller as
its chief feature. It is an effect of prisons and jailers which reaches
its height in the open space that fronts the barbican of the castle. You
look, instinctively, for His Majesty’s prison regulations on the outer
walls, and, approaching the gate, expect a warder’s figure at the wicket.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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