The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to EdinburghHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to Edinburgh
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A1 Road (England and Scotland); England -- Social life and customs; Great Britain -- Description and travel
One leaves Dunbar by wriggly and exiguous streets, coming through the
fisher villages of Belhaven and West Barns to where the main avoiding
route rejoins at Beltonford. The Scottish Tyne winds through the flat
meadows on the right—at such fortunate times, that is to say, as when it
does not pretend to be an inland sea and take the meadows, the road, and
the railway for its province. The road, too, is flat, and the railway,
which hugs it closely, the same. A good road, too, and beautiful.
Midway of it, towards East Linton, are the farmsteads and ricks of
Phantassie, at which spot Rennie, the engineer who built London Bridge,
and heaven and Dr. Smiles alone know how many harbours, was born in 1761.
“Phantassie” is a name that sorely piques one’s curiosity, so odd is it;
but the group of farm-buildings is commonplace enough, if more than
commonly substantial. No fantasy in their design, at any rate.
At East Linton we cross the Tyne which, crawling through the meadows,
plunges here in cascades under the road bridge, amid confused rocks. The
railway crosses it too, close by, and spans the road beyond; and the
village huddles together at an angle of the way. A long ascent out of it
commands wide views of agricultural Haddingtonshire, and of that
surprising mountainous hill, Traprain Law, rising out of the plain to a
height of over seven hundred feet.
Not merely a surprising hill, but one with an astonishing story. It had
always been thought that treasure was buried there, among the traces of
ancient buildings; and accordingly, with the permission of Right
Honourable A. J. Balfour, on whose land the hill is situated, excavations
were begun in 1919. It was found that the hill-top had been inhabited
intermittently over remote periods, and diggings were made into
successive strata of hearths and floorings. At first the “finds” were of
minor articles: bronze ornaments, glass and pottery, fragments of iron,
mostly of Celtic origin, but some Roman. The great discovery was made on
May 12th, 1919, when a workman, driving a pick through a floor, brought
up a silver bowl on the point of it. A deep recess was then discovered,
filled with treasure: bowls, spoons, cups, saucers, and a miscellaneous
collection of plate, mostly cut to pieces in strips folded over and
hammered down into packets of silver. Although it was grievous to look
upon that destruction, a good many of the fragments retained their
original decoration. They appear to be partly of Romano-Christian
origin, for the sacred symbol occurs among them, and on one piece is the
inscription “Jesus Christus.” Other pieces are almost as certainly
pagan, hearing as they do figures of Pan and Hercules. Among them were
four coins: the earliest of the Emperor Valerius, whose reign began A.D.
364, and the latest of Honorius, who died A.D. 463. A metal belt of
Saxon character was among this treasure-trove.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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