The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to EdinburghHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to Edinburgh
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A1 Road (England and Scotland); England -- Social life and customs; Great Britain -- Description and travel
AND now to take the open road again. The chief features of the road
between Durham and Newcastle are coal-pits, dismal pit villages, and
coal-dust. Not at once, however, is the traveller introduced to these,
and the ascent out of Durham, through the wooded banks of Dryburn, is
very pretty. It is at Framwellgate Moor, a mile and a half from the
city, that the presence of coal begins to make itself felt, in the rows
of unlovely cottages, and in the odd figures of the pitmen, who may be
seen returning from their work, with grimy faces and characteristic
miner’s dress. Adjoining this village, and indistinguishable from it by
the stranger, is the roadside collection of cottages known as “Pity Me,”
taking its name from the hunted fox in the sign of the “Lambton Hounds”
inn.
Framwellgate is scarce left behind before there rises up in the far
distance, on the summit of one of the many hills to the north-east, a
hill-top temple resembling the Athenian Acropolis, and as you go
northward it is the constant companion of your journey for some seven or
eight miles. This is “Penshaw Monument,” erected on that windy height in
1844, four years after his death, to the memory of John George Lambton,
first Earl of Durham. It cost £6,000, and commemorates the championship
of the Reform movement in its earlier and precarious days by that
statesman. Like many another monument, impressive at a distance, a near
approach to it leads to disillusion, for its classic outlines are allied
to coarse workmanship, and its eighteen great columns are hollow.
Penshaw, deriving its name from Celtic words, signifying a wooded height,
still has its woodlands to justify the name given nearly a thousand years
ago.
[Picture: Penshaw Monument]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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