The Greville Memoirs, Part 1 (of 3), Volume 1 (of 3): A Journal of the Reigns of King George IV and King William IVGreville, Charles
History
The Greville Memoirs, Part 1 (of 3), Volume 1 (of 3): A Journal of the Reigns of King George IV and King William IV
Greville, Charles
Great Britain -- History -- George IV, 1820-1830; Great Britain -- History -- William IV, 1830-1837
[2] From Salvatore's house at Resina to the top of the
mountain is seven miles; from the Hermitage to the top,
3-1/3. It is a mile and 200 feet from the bottom of the
ascent (on foot) to the top, 800 feet from the point we
first gain to the bottom of the crater; the inner
crater (or black hill, as I call it) is 230 feet high
and 180 feet in circumference. The miles are Neapolitan
miles, about three-fourths of an English mile.
The next morning Mr. Watson and I got a six-oared boat (with
sails) and went to Sorrento. Castel-a-Mare and the whole coast
are beautiful. Landed a mile from Sorrento, and walked by a path
cut in the rock to the Cocomella, a villa with a magnificent
prospect of the Bay exactly opposite Naples.
Placido lunata recessu
Hinc atque hinc curvas perrumpunt aequora rupes.
Dat natura locum, montique intervenit imum
Litus et in terras scopulis pendentibus exit.
Then to the town to see the curiosities, which are the Piscine,
Tasso's house, and some very romantic caverns in a wild dell
under the bridge at Sorrento; all very well worth seeing, but
Tasso's house was locked, so we could not get to the terrace.
Just as we arrived at Sorrento we found they were performing a
ceremony which takes place there every year on the 1st of May,
and there only--the benediction of the flowers, the ushering in
the may.
With songs and dance they celebrate the day,
And with due honours usher in the may.
It was in the Archiepiscopal church, which was gaily adorned with
hangings of various colours, gold and silver and flowers, full of
people, all in their best attire. A priest in the pulpit opposite
the Archbishop's throne called on the representatives of the
different parishes (seven in number), who advanced in succession,
each bearing a huge cross fifteen or twenty feet high, entirely
made of flowers, and adorned with garlands and devices, all
likewise of the most brilliant flowers, and, as each came up, a
little cannon was fired off. They were blessed in succession, and
then deposited around the throne of the Archbishop, who, after
this ceremony was concluded, went up to the altar and celebrated
High Mass. They told me that this festival had taken place at
Sorrento from the remotest time.
After seeing the Piscine we went into a garden above, where there
was a profusion of orange and lemon trees, loaded with ripe
fruit; the oranges we pulled off the trees and ate; they were
excellent, and as red as Morella cherries--
Whose fruit, burnished with golden rind,
Hung amiable, Hesperian fables true,
If true, here only, of delicious taste.
We could not stay long at Sorrento, and were four hours rowing
across the Bay to Naples. Dined with Hill at the Villa Belvidere
(a delicious villa on the Vomero), with a large, tiresome party,
principally English.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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