Naples, they tell me, does very well for a short time, but you will soon grow tired of it. To be sure, I have been here only three weeks, but I liked it better every day, and I am wretched at leaving it. What could I ever mean by thinking it was not gay, and less lively than Genoa? To-night, as I came home from riding, the shore was covered with lazaroni and throngs of people, dancing, singing, harping, fiddling--all so merry, and as if the open air and their own elastic spirits were happiness enough. I suppose I shall never come again, for when I have measured back the distance to my own foggy country, there I shall settle for ever, and Naples and her sunny shores and balmy winds will only be as a short and delightful dream, from which I have waked too soon. CHAPTER X. Mola di Gaeta--Capua--Lines on leaving Naples--Return to Rome-- The Aqueducts--'Domine, quo vadis?'--St. Peter's--The Scala Santa--Reasons in favour of San Gennaro--Ascent of St. Peter's--Library of the Vatican--A racing _ex voto_--Illness of George IV.--Approaching _Coup d'état_ in France--The Villa Mills--The Malaria--Duc and Duchesse de Dalberg--The Emperor Nicholas on his Accession--Cardinal Albani--A _Columbarium_-- Maii--Sir William Gell--Tivoli--Hadrian's Villa--The Adventures of Miss Kelly and Mr. Swift--Audience of the Pope--Gibson's Studio--End of Miss Kelly's Marriage--A great Function--The Jesuits--Saint-making--San Lorenzo in Lucina--The Flagellants-- Statues by Torchlight--Bunsen on the State of Rome--Fiascati-- Relations of Protestant States with Rome--The French Ministry-- M. de Villèle--The Coliseum--Excommunication of a Thief--The Passionists--The Corpus Domini--A Rash Marriage--Farewell to Rome--Falls of Terni--Statue at Pratolino--Bologna-- Mezzofanti--Ferrara--Venice--Padua--Vicenza--Brescia--Verona-- Milan--Lago Maggiore--The Simplon--Geneva--Paris. Mola di Gaeta, May 9th, 1830 {p.359} I have dined here on an open terrace (looking over the garden and the delicious Bay), where I have been sitting writing the whole evening. The moon is just rising, and throwing a flood of silver over the sea-- Rising in cloudless majesty, Apparent queen, unveiled her peerless light And o'er the dark her silver mantle threw.