The Greville Memoirs, Part 2 (of 3), Volume 2 (of 3): A Journal of the Reign of Queen Victoria from 1837 to 1852Greville, Charles
History
The Greville Memoirs, Part 2 (of 3), Volume 2 (of 3): A Journal of the Reign of Queen Victoria from 1837 to 1852
Greville, Charles
Great Britain -- History -- Victoria, 1837-1901
_Frankfort, June 24th._--Walked about the town, and went into the
shops, where I cannot resist buying prints, Bohemian glass, and the
deer's-horn things. Went to Mr. Bethmann's garden to see Dannecker's
Ariadne, which is one of the great sights of this place. We (Francis
Molyneux and I) found a French family, father, mother, and extremely
pretty young daughter about sixteen, wanting to get in, and not able
to make themselves understood, not speaking German. Francis Molyneux
got the custos to come, and we entered. The first _salle_ is furnished
with a number of casts of gladiators and Apollos, which, however, so
terrified the young innocent, who, it seems, has not been long out of
a convent, that she started back, and nothing could get her into the
museum. We passed on to the sanctum in which the Ariadne is placed,
and the father went off to try and get his girl to pass through these
formidable statues, but all in vain. I was amused with the _naïveté_
with which he said, shrugging up his shoulders, 'Non, ma fille ne veut
pas venir. Le fait est qu'elle n'a jamais rien vu de pareil.' The
Ariadne statue is fine, the attitude easy and graceful, but the face
is deficient in expression, and it has an impudent look.
[Sidenote: FRANKFORT.]
At three o'clock I got on the railroad, and went over to Mayence,
to hear the military bands, which play every Friday. This is a
great lounge, attended by all the people of the town, and many
from Frankfort and Wiesbaden. I was delighted. The music is really
magnificent. It was an Austrian band, about sixty or seventy in
number, admirably conducted. The garden in which they play, just
beyond the fortifications of the town, is very pretty, and the people
sit at tables drinking chocolate or eating ice; the men mostly walking
about and almost all smoking. There I fell in with Lord Westmoreland
and Frederick FitzClarence from Wiesbaden, and we dined together
afterwards, and at half-past eight returned home by railroad. This
morning I have been wandering about and exploring. It is a fine town,
and remarkable for the frequent intermixture of handsome modern houses
with buildings of a very antique but generally decayed appearance; the
place has a great look of well-doing, and one sees no beggars, and no
miserable objects. I understand that there is a good system of relief
for the poor, and no pauperism of the miserable and degraded character
that shocks one so in England. Frankfort is not very gay or amusing.
There is very little society; the rich people here live very quietly,
and only display their wealth in occasional banquets, which are
splendid, but long and tiresome. The old mother of the Rothschilds,
the grandmother of the present generation, is here, living in the
Jews' quarter in the old home of the family, which she will not be
persuaded to quit. It is miserable-looking on the outside, but is
said to be very different within. The old woman, who is ninety-four
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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