The Greville Memoirs, Part 2 (of 3), Volume 2 (of 3): A Journal of the Reign of Queen Victoria from 1837 to 1852Greville, Charles
History
The Greville Memoirs, Part 2 (of 3), Volume 2 (of 3): A Journal of the Reign of Queen Victoria from 1837 to 1852
Greville, Charles
Great Britain -- History -- Victoria, 1837-1901
_Wiesbaden, Wednesday, June 28th._--Lord Westmoreland agreed to go
with me to Baden-Baden, if I would wait a day or two, so I agreed to
do so. We went to the play on Monday evening, and found an extremely
pretty theatre; a Mdlle. Herz, or some such name, the best actress at
Berlin, appeared; the house was very thin. She reminded me of Rachel,
and I should think she must be a very good actress, but as I did not
understand a word, I can't pronounce confidently on her merits. I only
know that her voice is sweet and expressive, her action graceful,
her manner excellent; she is rather good-looking, and though I did
not comprehend what was said, I got sufficiently interested in the
action of the piece to sit out five acts without fatigue, which I
have often not been able to do at pieces I do understand. Yesterday
in the morning I followed a long walk through the garden, and through
shrubberies and fields, to a village and ruined castle, about a mile
and a half or two miles off. After breakfast went with Westmoreland
and his son, and G. Berkeley, to the Duke's hunting-place at the top
of a hill three miles off. A tolerable house, fitted up with memorials
of the chase, and all over stags' horns. A grand view from it of the
Rhine, and all the country as far as Darmstadt. Two magnificent bronze
stags at the entrance.
[Sidenote: THE MOTHER OF THE ROTHSCHILDS.]
_Mannheim, June 29th._--I went to Frankfort yesterday; went to see the
Jews' street, the most curious part of the town. It is very narrow,
the houses all of great antiquity, and not one new or modern in the
whole street. This street exhibits a perfect specimen of a town of
the fifteenth or sixteenth century. The houses are very lofty, a
good deal ornamented, but they look dark and dirty, and as if their
interior had undergone as little alteration as the exterior. Strange
figures were loitering about the street, standing in the doorways or
looking out of the windows. There was a man who might have presented
himself on the stage in the character of Shylock, with the gaberdine
and the beard; and old crones of the most miserable and squalid, but
strange aspect. We had the good luck to see the old mother of the
Rothschilds, and a curious contrast she presented. The house she
inhabits appears not a bit better than any of the others; it is the
same dark and decayed mansion. In this narrow gloomy street, and
before this wretched tenement, a smart _calèche_ was standing, fitted
up with blue silk, and a footman in blue livery was at the door.
Presently the door opened, and the old woman was seen descending a
dark, narrow staircase, supported by her grand-daughter, the Baroness
Charles Rothschild, whose carriage was also in waiting at the end of
the street. Two footmen and some maids were in attendance to help the
old lady into the carriage, and a number of the inhabitants collected
opposite to see her get in. A more curious and striking contrast I
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