The Greville Memoirs, Part 2 (of 3), Volume 2 (of 3): A Journal of the Reign of Queen Victoria from 1837 to 1852Greville, Charles
History
The Greville Memoirs, Part 2 (of 3), Volume 2 (of 3): A Journal of the Reign of Queen Victoria from 1837 to 1852
Greville, Charles
Great Britain -- History -- Victoria, 1837-1901
At eleven o'clock the railroad took me to Carlsruhe, where I was
obliged to hire a carriage to bring me here. Nothing could exceed the
indignation of my servant at seeing the deplorable old rattle-trap
which was produced for my use. It seemed to be dropping to pieces,
and could not have been cleaned, within or without, for many years.
Such as it was, I was forced to take it, and at the next stage I was
shifted into another of precisely the same description. At Rastadt,
the last stage, Thomas implored me to demand a more presentable
vehicle, and piteously remonstrated on the disgrace it would be to
make my entry into Baden in such an equipage. The Fates, however, had
decreed that this disgrace should befall me, for there was no carriage
better or worse to be had in Rastadt, and I was obliged to come on
with the same, horse and all; and, to fill the cup to overflowing,
I arrived at the hotel door in presence of a numerous assemblage of
smart people who were just going to dinner at the _table-d'hôte_. The
figure I must have cut was certainly not brilliant, but I could not
help being amused at it, and especially at the despair of my faithful
valet, who felt much more for my dignity than I did myself. There was
no room whatever at the hotel I stopped at, so I went to look for a
lodging elsewhere, and addressed myself to the Hôtel de l'Europe,
a grand-looking establishment. I asked if they had rooms, and they
said yes; but I suppose my appearance was not prepossessing (what
would they have thought if they had seen my carriage?) for they took
me to some miserable looking apartments in an adjoining outhouse. I
rejected these with indignation, and said I would look elsewhere, when
they ran after me, and offered me others; but I said, as they had not
chosen to do so at first, I would have nothing to say to them, and I
went on to the Hôtel de Russie, where I got very good rooms. In the
evening I went to the promenade and the gaming rooms, which are as
fine as the saloons in any palace I know of, and splendidly fitted up,
but the amount of play, which is to defray the expense, seemed to me
very small. It is, however, a very bad season, the long continuance
of bad weather having diminished the number of visitors. I did not
see one individual I knew, except a Colonel O'Meara whom I had known
a little in England, and who volunteered to be my cicerone, and was
very civil and obliging. This morning I walked before breakfast
through a delightful shady avenue to a village about a mile and a
half off, stopping to drink some water at a famous spring; then came
home and wrote my letters, and started to walk up to the old Castle,
which, after losing my way just outside the town, I successfully
accomplished, and a most glorious view it is from the top. I certainly
have never seen a more lovely landscape, and am rejoiced to have seen
it, to feed my memory with for the future.
[Sidenote: LIFE AT GERMAN BATHS.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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