The Greville Memoirs, Part 2 (of 3), Volume 2 (of 3): A Journal of the Reign of Queen Victoria from 1837 to 1852Greville, Charles
History
The Greville Memoirs, Part 2 (of 3), Volume 2 (of 3): A Journal of the Reign of Queen Victoria from 1837 to 1852
Greville, Charles
Great Britain -- History -- Victoria, 1837-1901
_Baden, July 9th._--On Friday dined with Lady Aldborough and Mrs.
Murchison, wife of the geologist, at an hotel _table-d'hôte_, where
Lady A.'s screaming and strange gestures alarmed me for the effect
they would produce on the company, and lest she should come out with
some of those extraordinary things which she does not scruple to say
to almost everybody she talks to. She is eighty-seven years old, still
vigorous, and has all her wits about her, only her memory is gone, for
she tells a story, and, forgetting she has told it, begins it again
almost directly after. I remarked that all the women who dined with us
ate almost everything with their knives, which was very disagreeable
to see. A boy was stuck up on a chair who gave us several recitations
in German, and then came round to lay us under contribution, though
it was hard upon me to be forced to pay for hearing what I did
not understand, and what only interrupted my conversation with my
neighbour. Yesterday, Westmoreland, his son and I, went to see the New
Castle, which the Grand Duke is repairing and fitting up. He has given
the Grand Duchess Stéphanie, to whom it belonged for her life, a house
in the town in exchange for it, and he is going to make it a residence
for himself, and very handsome and agreeable it will be. The dungeons
are curious and exhibit in perfection the local details of feudal
tyranny and oppression. There are the long passages and dark chambers,
the thick walls and stone doors, the shaft down which the wretches
were lowered, the hall in which they were judged, and the well or
oubliette into which by a trap-door they were precipitated, never to
be heard of more. After seeing the Castle, we drove to La Favorite,
a very curious place. It is not quite deserted, for the present
Grand Duchess occasionally takes up her abode there. The house is,
however, exactly in the state in which it was left by the Margravine
Sybilla, who built it. Everything is faded, but nothing altered, and
it exhibits a perfect specimen of a residence of the great people of
that period, about 120 years ago. It is curiously but richly adorned
with gilding, painting, glass, mosaic, and inlaid marble, all the
furniture of silk or velvet, and an immense collection of portraits
in miniature, half a hundred at least of Sybilla herself, and her
husband, the Margrave Louis, in every variety of costume, some the
most grotesque possible, besides those of curious worthies, let into
the mirrors on the walls. Downstairs there is a quantity of Venetian
and Bohemian glass, exceedingly fine, and a strange dinner service of
delft, very well done, in which there are turkeys, woodcocks, bones,
asparagus, cabbages, &c., the dishes representing the animals or the
vegetables which are to be served up in them. The most extraordinary
thing is the chapel which the old Margravine built in the garden in
the days of her penitence, to which she used to retire during Lent,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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