The aspect of this city is enchanting; built on the confluence of the Río Dulce and the Río Tucumán, in such a situation as the Spaniards alone knew how to choose at the epoch of the conquest, the town is traversed by straight and broad streets, with pavements, and intersected here and there by beautiful squares, adorned with sumptuous buildings. The population of Tucumán is about 12,000 souls; it possesses a college, and a somewhat renowned university; while its commerce makes it one of the most important towns of the Banda Oriental. At the time when we take the reader there that importance had further increased by the war. It had been fortified by means of a deep ditch, and by earth ramparts, sufficient to put it in a position to resist an attack. For some time strong detachments of troops had been sent to the town on account of the events which had happened in Peru, and the approach of the Spanish troops. These various corps were camped round the town, and their bivouacs offered the most singular aspect, especially to the eyes of a European, accustomed to that order, symmetry, and discipline which characterise the armies of the world. In these camps all was pell-mell and disorder. The soldiers, lying or sitting on the ground, were playing, sleeping, smoking, or eating, while their wives--for in the entire Hispano-American army each soldier is always followed by his wife--led the horses to drink, prepared the meals, or cleaned the arms with that passive obedience which is the characteristic of Indian women, and which in some respects renders those unhappy creatures so interesting and worthy of pity. The travellers, obliged to pass through the bivouacking parties, did not do so without some apprehension. However, contrary to their misgiving, they had not to submit to any insult, and entered without any obstacle San Miguel de Tucumán. The town appeared en fête; the clocks of the convents and of the churches were ringing a full peal; the streets were full of men and women, dressed in their best and handsomest costumes. "Have you decided on a spot where to stop?" said the painter to his companion. "Yes," answered the latter, "I am going to the portals of the Plaza Mayor." "But to which? All the square is furnished with portals." "To those which front the cathedral. An apartment has been retained for me at the house No. 3." "Good, I see that close-by." The caravan was then threading an apparently inextricable labyrinth at streets, but in about a quarter of an hour it came out upon the Plaza Mayor. "Here we are arrived," said the painter. "Permit me now to take leave of you." "Not before you have consented to accept from me the hospitality I have received from you." "Why not let me go?" "Who knows; perhaps I may still want your assistance?" "If it is to be so, I resist no longer, and I will follow you." "Let us enter, then, for I believe here is the house." They were, in fact, in front of No. 3. CHAPTER XVIII.