The gunsmith's manual : $b A complete handbook for the American gunsmith, being a practical guide to all branches of the tradeStelle, J. Parish (James Parish)
History
The gunsmith's manual : $b A complete handbook for the American gunsmith, being a practical guide to all branches of the trade
Stelle, J. Parish (James Parish)
Gunsmithing
In taking down a lock the beginner should work slowly and cautiously,
thinking in every case before acting. His screwdriver should be pressed
well-down in the notch of every screw to prevent damage to the head,
and if he apprehends the slightest danger of getting “things mixed,” he
should lay each screw and its piece in different places upon his bench.
Of course, there will be no such necessity after a few locks have been
taken down, but such a necessity might exist at the very beginning; at
least there is no harm to grow out of taking what is known to be the safe
side in every case.
The directions given for taking down, refer to the common lock, while
locks of some of the modern guns will be made on plans quite different.
But the principle will be the same, and hence there is no reasonable
demand for going into further detail. The first object will be to get
control of the mainspring so that it can be lifted out with ease. This
attained, and all the rest of the work is easy enough.
_To Clean and Oil the Lock._—Botches usually wipe the old oil and dirt
from the parts with a rag, put on fresh oil, and then put the lock
together again. This is a poor way, for a portion of the old gummy oil
will be left to combine with the new, thus soon making it about as bad
as the old. Every part should be thoroughly cleansed and dried before
any new oil is used. First wipe the dirt and old oil off as thoroughly
as possible with a piece of cloth or felt, and then rub it over with
powdered chalk or Spanish whiting. Next brush off and rub with a stiff
brush such as is used by jewelers or watchmakers. This will remove all
the old oil, after which the new oil may be applied.
Cases may turn up in which the lock has been long neglected, and the oil
and dirt have gummed together so badly as not to admit of wiping off. In
such cases the parts should be soaked for a short time in kerosene or in
benzine, which is still better. This will dissolve the gum and render it
easy of removal.
In oiling, only oil enough should be applied to lubricate the parts—there
is much more danger of getting on too much oil than too little. It should
be put on with a stubbed camel’s hair brush or pencil, as the painters
call it, and with extreme lightness. And there is but one kind of oil fit
to be used on a lock, the very best “watchmaker’s oil” obtainable. Such
an oil is comparatively costly, but a single bottle, costing 25 cents,
will oil hundreds of locks, hence the cost is really not entitled to
consideration, on account of its being so decidedly superior to any other
oil in use.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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