The gunsmith's manual : $b A complete handbook for the American gunsmith, being a practical guide to all branches of the tradeStelle, J. Parish (James Parish)
History
The gunsmith's manual : $b A complete handbook for the American gunsmith, being a practical guide to all branches of the trade
Stelle, J. Parish (James Parish)
Gunsmithing
_How to make Small Drills._—Then, again, to make small drills of steel
wire, use the lamp for heating and tempering. If a small drill be broken,
draw the temper in the lamp preparatory to forming it anew. Drills of
larger size may be hardened in the forge fire, brightened by grinding or
rubbing on a piece of fine emery cloth, and the temper readily drawn in
the lamp. The same process may be applied to tempering small screw taps.
Small screws can be readily blued in the same manner.
_Advantages of the Alcohol Lamp._—The lamp has this advantage over the
forge-fire; it draws the temper very evenly, and the temper color can
be readily seen, as the flame of alcohol makes no smoke to obscure it.
Even for small tempering, when once employed, no gunsmith will think of
discontinuing its use.
_The Soldering Copper._—The soldering copper for the use of the gunsmith
should be about one and a half pounds in weight. The length of the copper
should be about four or five inches, of octagon form, with a square
pyramidal shaped point. It is fixed to an iron rod about eight inches
long, on the end of which is a wooden handle.
_How to Heat the Copper._—When heating the copper for use, the best
way to ascertain the proper heat is to hold it near the face, and if a
bright warm glow is felt, it is hot enough for use. If heated too hot
the tinning will be burned off, and it will not work satisfactorily. To
replace the tinning, heat it warm enough to just melt the solder, and
file the surface to be tinned bright and smooth, then place a little
solder and a bit of resin on a piece of sheet-tin, and in this rub the
heated copper until the brightened surface has received a coating of the
solder, the resin acting as a flux during the operation.
_How to Tin the Copper._—Another method to tin a copper is to put the
solder and the resin on a brick, heat the copper and rub until it
receives the tin coating. The common soldering acid may be used instead
of the resin for a flux. During the operation the point of the copper may
be dipped in the acid to facilitate the tinning. It will be found that
a too free use of the acid, if used as a flux, for general work, will
soon destroy the point of the copper. When this is the case file off the
roughness and heat the copper quite warm, and draw it out to shape on
the anvil, the same as if working a piece of iron. When so shaped, file
smooth and re-tin as directed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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