The gunsmith's manual : $b A complete handbook for the American gunsmith, being a practical guide to all branches of the tradeStelle, J. Parish (James Parish)
History
The gunsmith's manual : $b A complete handbook for the American gunsmith, being a practical guide to all branches of the trade
Stelle, J. Parish (James Parish)
Gunsmithing
_Describing Lines on Bright Surfaces._—Many gunsmiths find it difficult
to make the pattern of work upon iron or steel, especially after the
surface is finished. Yet it is necessary to have the outline of the
intended form. For instance, if the pattern of a hammer for a revolver or
a gun hammer, the sides of which are both flat (in fact the hammers of
many breech-loading rifles are made in this manner), be required to be
made on a piece of iron or steel that has been faced down, the method is
to drill a hole for the screw or pin on which it turns, then fasten the
pattern to the work by driving a piece of wire into the hole, and, with
a sharp scriber, mark around the pattern, which is then removed and the
work filed away to the line. If the hammer be a broken one, then care
must be taken to have the pieces held carefully as they were before being
broken. If the pieces be somewhat small and difficult to hold properly,
warm them over a spirit lamp and smear the sides to be put against the
blank, lightly with beeswax, and this will tend to hold them better in
place and prevent their slipping.
To obtain a more permanent line and one that will show very distinctly in
all its tracings, coat the surface on which the line is to be made with a
film of copper. To do this take a lump of sulphate of copper, sometimes
called blue vitriol or blue stone, wet it with water and rub over the
bright surface of the work. The moisture will dry in a few minutes,
leaving a surface or film of pure copper. Put the pattern in place and
describe the outline. Upon removing the pattern the line will be found
to be clear and showing very distinctly through the coppery surface.
Three or four light rubs with the sulphate are sufficient to produce this
surface, which is so very thin that it may be easily removed when the
work is done with a fine file, or by rubbing with a bit of emery paper or
emery cloth.
CHAPTER XXXIII.
ON POWDER AND SHOT.
_To Select Buck Shot._—The proper way is to put a wad in the muzzle of
the gun, about half an inch down, and fit the shot in perfect layers; if
this is observed, there will be no necessity to try them in the cartridge
case, as they will be sure to fit. Buck-shot cast from a mould with nine
to the 1⅛ ounce, will just fit a twelve-bore barrel at the muzzle in a
choke bore. If smaller shot is required, choose four to a layer, or five,
and avoid the sizes that come between. At forty yards, all these pellets
ought to go in a 26-inch circle, and the penetration be equal to a small
rifle.
_Weighing Powder, etc._—For weighing powder charges for rifles,
Apothecaries’ scales and the Apothecaries’ table of weights and measures
are used. The table is:
20 grains, 1 scruple;
3 scruples, 1 drachm;
8 drachms, 1 ounce;
12 ounces, 1 pound.
Powder is bought and sold by Avoirdupois weight, which has 16 ounces to
the pound. The table is:
16 drachms, 1 ounce;
16 ounces, 1 pound.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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