The gunsmith's manual : $b A complete handbook for the American gunsmith, being a practical guide to all branches of the tradeStelle, J. Parish (James Parish)
History
The gunsmith's manual : $b A complete handbook for the American gunsmith, being a practical guide to all branches of the trade
Stelle, J. Parish (James Parish)
Gunsmithing
_Cherry Stain._—Put two ounces of annatto in half a gallon of rain water.
Boil until the annatto is dissolved, then add half an ounce of potash.
This preparation is intended for wood of a light color. It may be bottled
and kept for use when wanted. Nothing to do in the application but rub
over the wood, let dry, and then varnish.
_Oil Finish for Gun Stocks._—Mix common Spanish whiting with some kind of
coloring material until it is exactly the shade of the wood you desire to
finish. For instance, if it is walnut to be finished, the coloring agent
will be dry burnt umber. Having the whiting ready, give the wood, which
has been well finished up with fine sand paper, a coat of raw linseed
oil, then sprinkle the whiting mixture over it, and with a woollen cloth
rub thoroughly and hard. This forces the colored whiting into all the
pores of the wood. Lastly, rub down heavily with a piece of soft white
pine, and then set away to dry. It may be left in this condition, or it
may be varnished, when dry, if thought desirable.
_Varnishing and Finishing._—After the stock is shaped and sand-papered
so that the surface is smooth and free from any marks of the rasp
and scratches of sand-paper wipe it over with a cloth a little moist
with water, this will raise the grain of the wood a little, when dry,
sand-paper it off smooth. With a small brush, such as is used by painters
and called a sash brush, apply the varnish. Shellac varnish is the kind
generally used by gunsmiths. It will dry in a little time, but ought to
stand about twenty-four hours before being rubbed down. This is done
with fine sand-paper the same as finishing the stock, the object being
to fill the pores of the wood as much as possible. It may require two,
three or even four coats of the varnish to do this, each one after it is
thoroughly dried, being sand-papered down to the wood.
The last coat of varnish is laid on with a flat varnish brush made of
soft fine hair; see that the varnish be free from dirt or specks and not
too thick; put it on evenly and quickly. See that it does not run down
so as to show in streaks. When this coat is thoroughly dry, rub it down
smooth with powdered pumice stone applied with a rag wet with water. Take
care not to cut through the varnish so as to show the wood underneath,
as the pumice powder cuts very fast. When the surface is made smooth and
even, wash off all traces of the pumice powder with a wet cloth, and wipe
it dry. Now go over it with powdered rotten-stone applied with a rag
moistened with oil. Rub until the varnished surface shows a finish or a
glassy appearance, then wipe off all trace of rotten stone and oil. If a
little flour be dusted over, it will better remove the oil traces that
may remain; with the hand rub the surface until it presents a gloss. The
hand must be soft to do this and must be free from dirt.
[Illustration: FIGURE 25.]
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