Now commence at the breech, heat both barrel and rib carefully, avoiding all smoke and soot, wetting the joint on each side of the rib with the acid, touching the part with solder taken up on the point of the heated soldering copper. The surplus solder on the inner surface of the rib will flow down to the joint, between the rib and the barrel, as it is heated, and by touching the joint with the copper charged with solder, the outer edges of the joint will be completely filled, and both barrel and rib be perfectly united. So continue until the rib is soldered its entire length. When cool remove the binding wires, and wash thoroughly with warm water. This will remove the acid, which would otherwise rust the bright surface. Wipe dry and if the work is to stand for any length of time, oil it lightly by rubbing it over with a rag that is moistened with oil. The best way to remove the surplus solder at the joints is by means of scrapers. Take an old flat file, about six inches long, grind the teeth clean off on each side for an inch or two at the end, and also grind the end “square.” By using this tool in the same way that a chisel is used, it is very effective. A scraper made of an old three-square file with the teeth ground away at the end is also a good tool. Carefully remove all traces of solder or it will show after the barrel has been used a little. If the work is to be browned, the browning will not “take” where the solder remains. _How to Re-solder Ribs._—It often happens that double guns are brought in that have the top rib loosened from the barrels at the breech, and sometimes the soldering of the barrels, also at the breech, has been broken, so that they are quite separated. The cause of this is generally an effort to remove the patent breeches by some one who has not the proper appliances for the work. The barrels being caught in a vise, and a monkey-wrench, or some similar kind of wrench, applied, and as the breeches fit very tight, perhaps being rusted somewhat, considerable force is applied, and the torsion or twisting so occasioned starts and separates the parts as described. To re-unite these parts, remove the breeches, carefully raise the rib as far as can be done without bending it, and hold it thus in place by inserting a slip of wood so as to retain it. Use a slim-pointed scraper and scrape bright and clean the surface of the rib, and both barrels, where the rib comes in contact. Tin the parts with a heavy soldering copper, but do not put them in the fire to heat them; rely solely on the heat of the copper, taking time to do the work. When nicely tinned, put the rib in place, confining it with binding wire, and finish the soldering in the forge fire, the same as when putting on new ribs. Before putting the rib in place, fill the space between the rib and barrels pretty full of solder, cut in strips, like pieces of wire. If necessary, use the copper to assist the soldering, as they are being worked in the fire.