The Harvest of the Sea: A contribution to the natural and economic history of the British food fishesBertram, James Glass
Science
The Harvest of the Sea: A contribution to the natural and economic history of the British food fishes
Bertram, James Glass
Fish culture; Fisheries -- Great Britain; Fishes
he resorted when he wanted to have a fish-dinner free from the care and
turmoil of business. Many of the more luxurious Italians, imitating
Sergius Orata, expended fabulous sums of money on their fish-ponds, and
were so enabled, by means of their extravagance, to achieve all kinds
of _outré_ results in the fattening and flavouring of their fish. A
curious story, illustrative of these times and of the value set on fish
of a particular flavour, is related, in regard to the bass (_labrax
lupus_) which were caught in the river Tiber. The Roman epicures were
very fond of this fish, especially of those caught in a particular
portion of the river, which they could tell by means of their taste and
fine colour. An exquisite, while dining, was horrified at being served
with bass of the wrong flavour, and loudly complained of the badness of
the fish; the fact being that the real bass (the high-coloured kind)
were flavoured by the disgusting food which they obtained at the mouth
of a common sewer.
The modern phase of pisciculture is entirely a commercial one,
which as yet does not lie in imparting fanciful flavours to the
fish—although, if such were wanted, it might easily enough be
accomplished—but has developed itself both at home and abroad in the
replenishing of exhausted streams with salmon, trout, or other kinds
of fish. The present idea of pisciculture, as a branch of commerce,
is due to the shrewdness of a simple French peasant, who gained his
livelihood as a _pêcheur_ in the tributaries of the Moselle, and the
other streams of his native district, _La Bresse_ in the _Vosges_. He
was a thinking man, although a poor one, and it had long puzzled him
to understand how animals yielding such an abundant supply of eggs
should, by any amount of fishing, ever become scarce. He knew very well
that all female fish were provided with tens of thousands of eggs, and
he could not well see how, in the face of this fact, the rivers of La
Bresse should be so scantily peopled with the finny tribes. Nor was the
scarcity of fish confined to his own district: the rivers of France
generally had become impoverished; and as in all Catholic countries
fish is a prime necessary of life, the want of course was greatly felt.
Joseph Remy was the man who first found out what was wrong with the
French streams, and especially with the fish supplies of his native
rivers—and better than that, he discovered a remedy. He ascertained
that the scarcity of fish was chiefly caused by the immense number of
eggs that never came to life, the enormous quantity of young fish that
were destroyed by enemies of one kind or another, and the fishing-up of
all that was left, in many instances, before they had an opportunity
to reproduce themselves; at any rate, without any care being taken to
leave a sufficient breeding stock in the rivers, so that the result he
discovered had become inevitable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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