The Hastings Road and the "Happy Springs of Tunbridge"Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Hastings Road and the "Happy Springs of Tunbridge"
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs; Hastings Road
Old Roar was a waterfall, and the ravine through which it roared exists
to this day, as those who seek it, after tracing several fields and
pathways hemmed in between villas, shall find. Even so far back as
1827 it was described as “not so considerable as thirty years ago,”
and sceptical writers of that time declared there never had been a
period when it was not said of Old Roar that “he is not so good as
last season.” In 1841 Mrs. Mozley, sister of Cardinal Newman, wrote
a novel called “The Lost Brooch,” which no one has ever succeeded in
reading, and in it she describes Old Roar as possessing “all the points
necessary for a very good cataract, except one—water: rather a serious
want in a waterfall.” Yet there was a time when its hoarse voice was to
be distinctly heard a mile away. Pause to-day on the wooden bridge that
spans the gorge, and only a dampness that discolours the stones is seen
through the trees that spring from the sides.
This is typical of much else around Hastings or any other town that has
equally expanded. To the right of the road lies Hollington church: the
“Church in the Wood,” famous in all this country-side as a romantic
solitude. There are woods here now, but not so extensive as before, and
the church is no longer in them, but on the fringe of what remains.
The church itself, restored and practically rebuilt, is utterly and
absolutely without interest; and the churchyard is now nothing but a
cemetery filled with costly and pretentious monuments. Yet, such is
the force of habit and tradition, it will be found, on examining the
huge, ledger-like visitors’ book kept in the porch, that an average of
five hundred people make pilgrimage to the spot daily in the holiday
season. They see nothing worth the trouble, and having seen it go away
again not displeased, for to visit the “Church in the Wood” is a duty
laid upon the holiday-maker, and will be, even when there is no wood
remaining. The way to and from it is by “Old Church Road,” where you
find houses named with even more than the usual want of propriety.
Thus “Sea View” does not look upon the sea, “Fair View” is opposite a
manure-heap, and from “Old Church View” you cannot view the church.
It is not worth the while exploring the New London Road. It is
dispiriting, and those electric tramways that are the tyrants of the
roads for miles around Hastings and St. Leonards render the way of
the cyclist down Silverhill hazardous in the extreme. It is true the
map shows the attractive name of “Bohemia” here, but it is only a
mean—the meanest and miserablest—suburb. Henri Murger, Bohemian of that
artistic and literary Bohemia that is not mapped, died, disillusioned,
exclaiming against his wasted life in that land of rosy visions, “_pas
de Bohème_,” and we may adopt his saying and, appropriating it to this
drab purlieu, turn back and make for Hastings by the Old London Road,
itself not particularly attractive in these times.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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