The heart of Africa, Vol. 1 (of 2)Schweinfurth, Georg August
Science
The heart of Africa, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Schweinfurth, Georg August
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Schweinfurth, Georg August, 1836-1925 -- Travel -- Africa, Central
Although my fatigue by day made repose by night very essential to me,
my rest was sadly disturbed by the habits of my people. Quite
intolerable at times was the eternal babbling of their prayers, which,
beginning in the evening hours, were wearily prolonged, and nothing
could accustom me to the clamour which they made. They seemed at times
to drive me in my impatience well-nigh to distraction. Some priests
had arrived from Darfoor, who surpassed all else in the clamour they
raised. With a lot of gibberish utterly incomprehensible, through
their antiquated pronunciation, to any of the Nubians, they proceeded
to recite the verses of the Koran with the grinding monotony of a
mill. My own people, however, devoted Mohammedans as they were, on
these occasions took my part, and warned off the disturbers of my rest
from the proximity of the hut. I cannot tell whether they were not
such enthusiastic believers, or whether their animosity was excited by
the bombastic erudition of the Foorians, but they set to work in
earnest, and made a clearance as effectual as I had once seen
accomplished by the officers of the liberal-tyrannical government of
Muntass Bey in Suakin. That ruler, when I had last been residing in
his town, had had the unparalleled audacity to send his Khavasses into
the neighbouring mosque, and to threaten to make a free use of the
kurbatch if the prayers at night were not promptly stopped. He sent a
message to the effect that if the priests wanted to pray they need not
shriek, for Allah could hear just as well without the outcry. The
daring of such an intrusion had never been matched from the day of
creation onwards.
Idrees, the superintendent of the Seriba, had eleven sons all nearly
of the same age, a circumstance readily explained by his plurality of
wives. For these youths, whom the children of other residents were
allowed to join, he had instituted something like a regular Jewish
school, and no one who has ever had the chance of witnessing the
proceedings of such an institution can forget the sensation they left
upon his ears. Four times in the course of the four-and-twenty hours,
at intervals of four hours apart, does the chorus of voices in these
Nubian schools break out in alternate humming, and buzzing, and
shouting, occasionally varied by the didactic hammering of the master,
by the switch of his rod, and the consequent screams of the
youngsters, which were invariably followed by a louder and livelier
articulation. There is one school time just before sunset and another
very shortly after, so that every attempt at repose is certain to be
thwarted. However, I could always endure this disturbance with much
more equanimity than the humbug of the prayers; for, however
erroneous, according to our ideas, might be the method of instruction
in school, yet its object at least was laudable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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