The heart of Asia : $b A history of Russian Turkestan and the Central Asian Khanates from the earliest timesSkrine, Francis Henry
History
The heart of Asia : $b A history of Russian Turkestan and the Central Asian Khanates from the earliest times
Skrine, Francis Henry
Asia, Central -- History; Asia, Central -- Relations -- Russia; Russia -- Relations -- Asia, Central
beat highest, tenanted by the bones of those who died at their Tsar’s
behest. The Cossack and the Stavropol Regiments have their own God’s
acre, and in a third, which stands near the site of Skobeleff’s camp,
is a white-washed mound with an iron plate recording the number of the
slain. A little museum of relics of the siege has lately been opened
between the rugged earthen wall and the railway line. The contrast
between past and present is placed in a startling light by a large
cotton-pressing factory which has been established by a Jew near the
western face of Geok Teppe. Here gangs of Turkomans, some of whom were
doubtless once eager in war and foray, may be seen toiling at the
screw-presses under the sharp spur of necessity.
[Illustration: A GROUP OF TURKOMANS AT ASKABAD STATION]
Askabad, the capital of Transcaspia, is 322¼ miles from Krasnovodsk,
and is reached in twenty hours. The town dates only from 1883, and
now has a population of about 16,000, including a garrison of 10,000.
It stands on the broadest part of the Akkal oasis, at the foot of the
Kopet Dāgh range, which affords a refuge to the European in the fierce
summer heats. There are two sanataria,--Fīrūza, in a pleasant valley
2800 feet above sea-level, and Khayrābād, 3000 higher, a Transcaspian
Simla sacred to the Di Majores of the official Pantheon. The broad
streets are lined with vigorous young trees, and cut each other at
right angles. The Anglo-Indian traveller is forcibly reminded of the
cantonments, which are believed to have furnished the founder, General
Komaroff, with a model for his headquarters. In the matter of roads,
the Russian stations of Central Asia would give points to any town in
the European dominions of the Tsar. They show no break-neck holes, no
boulders which only a droshky can negotiate; and their excellence at
Askabad is vouched for by the existence of a flourishing bicycle club,
which is the centre of social life for the non-military population.
On leaving the station the tourist passes, on the left, the offices
of the railway staff, with Oriental arcades surrounding a pretty
garden, a technical school, which has recently been enlarged, and
a pro-gymnasium, and thus reaches the barracks, which stand at the
north-east corner of the town, and accommodate four active and one
reserve battalion of Transcaspian Rifles, a regiment of Cossacks from
Terek in the Caucasus, three batteries of field and one of mountain
guns, and a squadron of 200 Turkoman militia. Their quarters have been
arranged on purely Indian lines. Every company or squadron has a lofty
one-storeyed building allotted to it, containing a dormitory with a
double row of beds, a chapel, and a hall for recreation and military
instruction. The latter contains two rifles on stands with targets for
aiming-drill, which is illustrated by books containing photogravures of
the different positions. Here, too, are always seen oleograph portraits
of the reigning Tsar and his consort.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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