The heart of Asia : $b A history of Russian Turkestan and the Central Asian Khanates from the earliest timesSkrine, Francis Henry
History
The heart of Asia : $b A history of Russian Turkestan and the Central Asian Khanates from the earliest times
Skrine, Francis Henry
Asia, Central -- History; Asia, Central -- Relations -- Russia; Russia -- Relations -- Asia, Central
The climate of Merv is detestable. In summer the temperature rises
to 100 degrees, and the houses must be sealed hermetically between 8
a.m. and sunset. No punkahs mitigate the sweltering heat, and ice is
tabooed on the ground that it increases the liability to fever. This
latter is the bane of Merv, as it is of all irrigated tracts without
subsoil drainage. In 1896 nearly 5000 of the population perished; and
so high was the death-rate in the Russian garrison that it was in
contemplation to remove the troops temporarily to healthier quarters.
In no place are health-giving diversions more necessary, but such
are unknown even to the younger officers. A respectable bag of the
brilliant Central Asian pheasant may be made in the brushwood cover
three miles from Merv. In India the environs of a military station are
swept as bare of game as the Plaine de St. Denis by Parisian gunners.
Polo is unknown, though the ground in all directions is suited to the
noble pastime, and ponies can be picked up for £10 or £12. The scanty
leisure left the young fellows by the absorbing round of duty is given
up to billiards and dancing. Balls take place on Sundays at the Casino,
an institution which takes the place of our messroom and club. It
belongs to Government, and is maintained by subscriptions levied from
all civil and military officers. At the entrance is a buffet covered
with bottles and the usual components of the zakouska. Adjoining it is
a restaurant, which offers an extensive menu at prices much below those
of the railway refreshment-rooms and the miserable hotels. This opens
on to a fine ballroom adorned with portraits of Tsars and Tsarinas past
and present. Guests are received on their arrival by two members of
the Casino committee, and make their way through a hall crowded with
officers in undress uniform to the ballroom, at the upper end of which
the great ladies of the place sit in state round a table covered with
dishes of apples and bonbons. After making his obeisance, the visitor
is free to enjoy himself--if haply he can secure a partner, for the
dearth of the fair sex at Central Asian balls is more marked than in
India. Mazurkas and cotillons are practised with a zeal which would
perhaps be considered “bad form” at Simla; while the majority unable
to participate in their ardent pleasures block the doorways and find
solace in frequent adjournments to the buffet, which is always thronged
with hosts only too willing to pledge their friends in rassades of
vodka and fiery liqueurs. The close resemblance between Central Asian
and Indian cantonments extends to the bazaars. The lines of small open
shops, the dusty trees, the open drains, even the indescribable but
never-to-be-forgotten odour, all are common to British and Russian
possessions in the East. The trade of Merv is not confined to the
permanent bazaar. A weekly market is held on a plain to the east of
the town. The roads converging thither are thronged on Mondays with
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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