The heart of Asia : $b A history of Russian Turkestan and the Central Asian Khanates from the earliest timesSkrine, Francis Henry
History
The heart of Asia : $b A history of Russian Turkestan and the Central Asian Khanates from the earliest times
Skrine, Francis Henry
Asia, Central -- History; Asia, Central -- Relations -- Russia; Russia -- Relations -- Asia, Central
According to tradition, they
cover the remains of two standard-bearers of the Prophet. Hard by is a
fine vaulted well; and the group are the sole exceptions to the tale
of ruin told by the heaps of crumbling bricks which stretch as far as
the eye can see. The oldest of the ruined cities of the plain, called
Giaur Kal`a, stood eastwards of these monuments. It was destroyed in
the seventh century, when the Caliph `Omar’s lieutenants carried their
creed through Central Asia by fire and sword. Giaur Kal`a is identified
by its vast earthen ramparts, which have proved more durable than the
bricks and mortar of a much later age. As in the case with Bahrām
`Alī, there are the remains of a citadel at its north-eastern angle,
from which an extended view can be had of the poor relics of vanished
splendour. North-west of Giaur Kal`a are the only buildings of ancient
Merv which continue to serve the purposes of man. They are a serai and
mosque, which have clustered round the ugly tomb of a saint named Yūsuf
Hamadāni. It contains the usual vaulted chambers for the accommodation
of travellers, ranged in a square in which their goods and camels find
standing room. Beyond it is the tomb of Sultan Sanjar, exactly in the
centre of the site of the second of the towns which successively bore
the name of Merv. It is said to have been modelled on that of Firdawsi
near Meshed, but it closely resembles the great mausolea of Upper
India. All are alike, quadrangular buildings topped with an echoing
dome, which gives a sense of vastness and solemnity beyond anything
that the “long-drawn aisle and fretted vault” can compass. Even in
its ruin the splendid edifice shows feats of workmanship in brick and
mortar which it would be difficult to imitate with all the appliances
of modern science. The Sultan who sleeps below was the best of the
Seljūk Turks; and, to judge from the abundance of offerings piled on
the rude clay mound which covers his remains, he still lives in the
hearts of the people. The noble work was seen in all its majesty by
only two generations; for in 1221 the city of the good Sultan Sanjar
was razed to the ground, with a fearful slaughter of the inhabitants,
by Tulūy Khān, a worthy son of the ferocious Chingiz. Here the ground
is strewn with fragments of pottery exhibiting strangely beautiful
designs, iridescent glass and enamelled tiles; and no one can doubt
that systematic researches would yield more substantial tokens of a
buried civilisation. The source of the fabulous wealth of Old Merv
stands revealed in the numerous irrigating channels with which the site
is scored. This is the land where--
“----fairest of all streams, the Murga roves,
Amongst Merou’s bright palaces and groves.”[683]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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