The heart of Asia : $b A history of Russian Turkestan and the Central Asian Khanates from the earliest timesSkrine, Francis Henry
History
The heart of Asia : $b A history of Russian Turkestan and the Central Asian Khanates from the earliest times
Skrine, Francis Henry
Asia, Central -- History; Asia, Central -- Relations -- Russia; Russia -- Relations -- Asia, Central
state, and oftener amass great wealth after a few years’ practice of
their degrading trade. The Amīr maintains a troupe of bachas; and
without their aid an entertainment of any description would be as a
performance of Hamlet without the Prince of Denmark. The European who
attends one of these ceremonies feels instinctively how wide is the
gulf between East and West, when he remarks the enthusiasm excited by
the phases of passion depicted by these children.
To Englishmen an exhibition of the national game of baigha is more
interesting. It is a scramble by mounted players for the carcass of a
goat. When all are ready for the fray, the umpire beheads the creature
and throws its bleeding body into the arena. Then follows a scrimmage
which reminds one of Rugby football. The goat’s remains become the
centre of a dense mass of men and horses locked in a desperate
struggle, in which, wonderful to relate, players are rarely unseated,
and still more seldom do the animals injure each other. The object of
each is to monopolise the Bokhāran substitute for a ball, and carry it
far from the scene of action, outstripping all competitors.
The great bazaar of Bokhārā makes some amends for the dulness long
drawn out of domestic life. It is, indeed, a relief to pass from the
garish sunshine into the cool gloom of these lofty arcades, which
extend for at least seven miles in all their ramifications. The roof
is generally of beaten clay, laid upon undressed timber; and on
either side is an endless vista of booths, displaying every article
of luxury and use in demand among Asiatic people. Carpets and rugs of
harmonious tone, piles of gaudy shawls and dress pieces, snuff-boxes
of polished gourd to hold the pungent green powder affected by the
Bokhārans, and cutlery and trinklets of every description. Europe here
struggles with Asia for mastery, and seems about to gain the battle;
for though all the European goods bear Russian labels, the great bulk
is the produce of German workshops. The stimulus given to the trade of
the Fatherland by the payment of the French indemnity in 1871 has led
to a constant movement of Teutons across the Russian frontier. They
retain their German citizenship, while they turn out cheap and nasty
wares under the ægis of a protective fiscal system. One section of
the vast bazaar, roofed by a dome of ancient brickwork, is sacred to
literature, and the counters of its shops are piled high with standard
works in lithograph editions, and here and there a manuscript.
Great bargains may sometimes be obtained by connoisseurs, though
there are still enough native bibliophils in Bokhārā to render good
finds by Europeans exceptional. Money-changers’ stalls are frequent,
with tempting heaps of silver and copper discs for exchange against
Russian money. The state has been allowed to retain its own coinage,
a prerogative more valued than any other by Eastern sovereigns. The
unit is the tanga, a silver piece which fluctuates as violently as did
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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