The heart of Asia : $b A history of Russian Turkestan and the Central Asian Khanates from the earliest timesSkrine, Francis Henry
History
The heart of Asia : $b A history of Russian Turkestan and the Central Asian Khanates from the earliest times
Skrine, Francis Henry
Asia, Central -- History; Asia, Central -- Relations -- Russia; Russia -- Relations -- Asia, Central
In a suburb half a mile north-east of the Bībī Khānūm stands a
sepulchre of a different type. It is that of Kāsim ibn `Abbās, a saint
who endured martyrdom in an attempt to convert the fire-worshippers
of Samarkand. Tradition adds that he picked up his severed head,
like St. Denis, and retired with it to a well, whence he is destined
to emerge in the hour of Islām’s triumph. The Shāh Zindah, “Living
Saint,” has a tomb erected by Tīmūr,[733] which is entered by a brick
gateway rich in blue and white faience, opening on a street of tombs
with some resemblance to the Appian Way. On either side of a flight
of steps, which once were of marble, ascending the side of a ravine,
are a series of mausolea erected in honour of members of Tīmūr’s
family, his generals, and trusted servants. The gates and façades are
encrusted with glorious faience. A photograph might convey a faint
impression of the exquisite form of pillars shaped like palm-trees,
the artistic design of the scrollwork and tracery. A consummate
master of colouring alone could reproduce the harmony in dark blue,
turquoise, yellow, and green of this unrivalled panelling. The common
belief is that the porcelain which is seen in such perfection at the
Shāh Zindah was evolved in ancient Persia. It was undoubtedly brought
by the Mongols from China.[734] The decoration of the Constantinople
mosques, especially those dating from the golden age of Sulaymān the
Magnificent, is similar to the specimens so much admired at Samarkand.
The vista closes with the holy man’s tomb, which is approached by a
suite of halls adorned with arabesques and beautifully carved wooden
pillars. It is a mosque hung with offerings from the faithful. Visitors
are allowed by the attendant priests to peer through a carved screen
into a sombre vault, in which the faint outline of a funeral stone
is seen, covered with costly shawls. Shāh Zindah has suffered less
than its unfortunate neighbours owing to its smaller dimensions; but
systematic repairs carried out by experts are urgently needed. All that
has been done by the present masters of Samarkand is to prevent the
wholesale pilfering of coloured tiles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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