The Heart of ScotlandMoncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
History
The Heart of Scotland
Moncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
Perthshire (Scotland) -- Description and travel
The “drear and distant regions” are now more admired than the “margins
green,” through which the Earn creeps into the Tay a few miles below
Perth, where the great river broadens as an estuary about its reclaimed
islands. The steamer trip from Perth to Dundee makes a local ploy rather
than a tourist link, so few Southrons set eyes on those fat banks backed
by richly wooded hills and crags. A little above the confluence stand
the ruins of Elcho Castle, which Baddeley dismisses as “commonplace,”
and Black finds unworthy of any epithet; but the race it nursed still
stands high among Scotland’s nobles; and in or about it was a lair of
Wallace’s most daring adventures. A little below, over the Fife border,
lies the old seaport of Newburgh, surrounded by outlying spurs of the
Ochils that give fine prospects across the Carse of Gowrie upon the
opposite amphitheatre of the Sidlaws. Tourists seldom stop at Newburgh
to see the adjacent Lindores Abbey and Lindores Loch, and the site of
one of Wallace’s battlefields: so much the worse for the tourist. Two or
three generations ago, he could not so easily have avoided Newburgh,
when it was a noted station of posting and coach traffic from Perth.
To me, the flat Rhynds about the mouth of the Earn are of special
interest, since they were long the home of my forbears, edged off the
Hill of Moncrieff by a junior branch of the same stock, then again
taking refuge across the Tay, when their dwindled possessions here had
been sold to the house of Elcho. And time was when the eyes of all
Scotland turned to this now obscure corner. A mile south of the Earn’s
boldest crook, about the Western Rhynd peninsula, Abernethy is still
visited by antiquaries for its mysterious round tower, standing over
seventy feet high beside the church that has given Dr. Butler, its
incumbent, material for a goodly volume. He makes no doubt that this
tower was built upon their native models by Irish ecclesiastics,
refugees from rude Danish invasion of their own saintly island. The only
other such structure in Scotland, left unruined, is at Brechin, both of
them better built than the Irish round towers on which ’prentice hands
may have been tried. Sculptured stones of still greater antiquity have
here escaped iconoclastic zeal, to be broken relics of Abernethy’s
former state, poor and out of the way as it stands now.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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