The Heart of ScotlandMoncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
History
The Heart of Scotland
Moncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
Perthshire (Scotland) -- Description and travel
drained by that unconscionable toll. Such trivial reminiscences I set
down partly to please myself, partly to explain how my familiarity with
this region is oddly incomplete, as in the case of a student who knew
all about Africa, America, and Asia, but had stopped subscribing to the
Encyclopædia before it touched on Europe. Yet the reader must take fair
notice that there are few roads hereabouts upon which I may not be
tempted to trot out my own early memories; and if, belike, he likes not
this mood of anecdotage, let him turn to the article on Strathearn in
some ponderous cyclopædia or plodding guide-book.
Mr. Hall, for his part, did not despise the trout-fishing for which the
Farg was notable in my youth; and he had a good day’s sport, when so few
strangers sought its shady course that he found some difficulty in
getting his host to make out a bill, that for two days’ entertainment of
man and beast, including a bottle of wine and other beverages, came to
less than ten shillings. By Culfargie, the little Farg runs into the
Earn, here a goodly river of smooth channels and deep pools, meandering
through a rich valley between the wooded bluffs of Moncrieff Hill and
the green slopes of the Ochils. Except for its craggy walls, there is
nothing Highland about this part of the strath, as thickly set with
mansions, farms, and woods as any snug scene of England. Of it, I have
already spoken in _Bonnie Scotland_; and will only add that Mr. Hall was
scandalised at the numbers of old bachelors he found resorting to the
Spa of Pitkeathly, then as frequented as “St. Ronan’s Well,” where it
appears that bachelors, young and old, were very apt to get into
mischief.
Above the Bridge of Earn, over which goes the high road to Perth, the
river is crossed by the two converging railway lines that tunnel through
Moncrieff Hill to burst into daylight on the Tay. It is the next reaches
of the winding Earn that are hardly known to strangers, unless in
glimpses from the train; yet here it flows by scenes of as much historic
interest as beauty. Forgandenny is a picturesque village, beside which
an old mansion, destroyed by fire, has been replaced by a new one,
notable for its fine gardens, like so many other seats in the
neighbourhood. Forteviot, a little higher up, has come down from the
rank of an ancient royal seat. Here died Kenneth McAlpine, 860, after
hammering the Picts into a new kingdom; and for three centuries later
shadowy Scottish kings are seen flitting through a royal stronghold that
stood on the tongue of land between the Earn and its tributary the May.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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