The Heart of the Alleghanies; or, Western North CarolinaZeigler, Wilbur Gleason
History
The Heart of the Alleghanies; or, Western North Carolina
Zeigler, Wilbur Gleason
Allegheny Mountains; North Carolina -- Description and travel
I felt disconcerted. Evidently, the man was a gentleman,--he objected to
being interviewed. The tack looked like a bad one; clouds a little too
electric for fine sailing. A thin-haired woman in a calico dress and
rough shoes, with a care-worn expression on her pale face, was sitting
at one end of the porch. She now spoke, in a voice inaudible to the
unapproachable:
“Don’t pay any attention to him. He’s been drinkin’. Hit allers makes
him ugly.”
“Who is he?” I whispered.
“My husband. We’ve been married a year; soon arter he cum from the
West.”
And then she sighed and looked out across the rickety fence, the roaring
waters of the Broad river, the brown mill and the few houses by it, and
then at the stony-faced mountains beyond. I sighed in sympathy.
A bare-footed black girl stuck her head out of the door and announced
that dinner was ready. Being tired and hungry, I was not backward in
answering this notice, and moved into the dining-room. On my plate,
after helping myself from everything on the table, were a chunk of fat
pork, a piece of doughy, hot, wheat bread, and some boiled green beans.
A tin cup of butter-milk was beside the mess to wash it down. Let me say
right here that this was an exceptional meal! I have been on many tramps
and rides through the Carolina mountains, but never had I met with such
a reception and such fare. They were not backward in demanding half a
dollar, the usual price asked by the mountaineer for supper, lodging and
breakfast for man and his horse.
The man in brown, as he mended my saddle bags after dinner, filled my
ears with a recital of the mysteries of Bat cave. He represented it as
the wonder of the mountains. Its gloomy depths contained chambers of
marvelous dimensions, while bats, the unholy habitants of darkness,
stuck to the walls and flitted in its precincts. He volunteered as a
guide, and as it lay on the way to Chimney Rock hotel, I mounted and
rode along with him.
By the bouldered river, before the guide’s cabin, I tied my horse, and,
by means of a foot-log, crossed to the opposite bank. It was a half-mile
walk. We waded through the soft soil of several corn-fields, pitched
almost perpendicular on the mountain side; climbed a number of rail
fences; and after a steep ascent over tree-trunks and rocks, we arrived
at the mouth of the cave. An air as cold as a winter lake breeze came
from the darkness. It chilled us through and through. We went in without
torches. There were rifts in the apex of the roof, high above, through
which sunlight poured, dimly lighting up the whole interior. It failed
most miserably to meet my expectations.
“Where are your bats, Dotson?” I asked.
“Hit’s cu’rous; I don’t see nary one.”
Dotson shaded his eyes, as he spoke, and peered down into a well-like
hole, that broke away from our feet, and whose opposite wall, rock-piled
in front, ascended straight upward till the sides closed.
“Nor do I,” I returned; “where are they?”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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