The Heart of the Alleghanies; or, Western North CarolinaZeigler, Wilbur Gleason
History
The Heart of the Alleghanies; or, Western North Carolina
Zeigler, Wilbur Gleason
Allegheny Mountains; North Carolina -- Description and travel
The great valleys of the Catawba are covered principally with unfenced
fields of corn. The road leads through rustling acres, where one’s
horse, guided with slack rein by absent-minded rider, can, as he walks
along, break a green ear of corn from the standing stalk, without
stretching his neck over a fence. To prevent cattle from running at
large through these thickly-planted lands, gates are swung across the
roads at the division fence of each plantation, and from necessity, the
traveler must open them to ride through; and then, from moral
obligation, he must shut them behind him. The farm-houses are home-like
in appearance. They denote prosperity, happiness and culture in the
families inhabiting them. Many are of antique architecture, and set back
on level lawns, under ornamental trees and flourishing orchards.
Toward the middle of the morning, the sharp outlines of the Linville
mountains showed themselves in the east, and after an abrupt turn from
the Bakersville road, I struck the North fork of the Catawba, and rode
twelve miles along its picturesque course. Its waters have a peculiar,
clear, green hue, and speak of speckled trout in their depths and shaded
rapids. Without a guide, I could have followed up the North fork, under
the shadows of Humpback mountain, and, by a trail, have crossed the
ridge to the Linville falls; but by this route the wild scenery of the
Linville cañon is lost. Bryson Magee was my guide to the Burke county
road along the summit of Bynum’s bluff. Just after a slight shower, he
overtook me as he was returning from a day’s work for a North Fork
farmer. He had an open, tanned countenance, fringed by a brown beard,
and capped by a head of long hair, hidden under the typical mountain
hat--a black, slouch felt, with a hole for ventilation in the center of
the crown and minus the band. An unbleached, linen shirt, crossed by
“galluses” which held his homespun pantaloons in place, covered his
body. He wore shoes and walked leisurely.
“Is there anyone on this road who can guide me up Bynum’s bluff?” I
asked him, after returning his “howdy.”
“Why, some niggers live nigh hyar who could do hit, but they’re all at
work two mile below.”
“Any one else I could get?”
“Not a soul, except--”
“Who?” I asked.
“Wal, stranger--I reckon you’s a furriner--I kin do hit, but I’m
powerful tired: worked all day.”
When we arrived at his log cabin, he had definitely determined to go. It
was then four o’clock, and clouds were driving thick and dark across the
sky. We tied the saddle-bags to the saddle, and then began the ascent.
Bryson led my horse; I walked on behind.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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