The Heart of the Alleghanies; or, Western North CarolinaZeigler, Wilbur Gleason
History
The Heart of the Alleghanies; or, Western North Carolina
Zeigler, Wilbur Gleason
Allegheny Mountains; North Carolina -- Description and travel
The Grandfather mountain, in the extreme southern corner of Watauga
county, is the highest point of the Blue Ridge. The elevation is 5,897
feet, and being 35 miles in an air-line distant from the loftier summits
of the Black mountains, and fifteen miles from the Roan, over-topping as
it does all the nearer peaks by an altitude of nearly 1,000 feet, it
commands an almost limitless view of mountain country. It merits the
name of Grandfather, for its rocks are of the Archæan age, and the
oldest out-croppings on the globe. Two other reasons for its name are
ascribed; one from the profile of a man’s face seen from the Watauga
river; the other from the resemblance of the rhododendrons, when clad in
ice and snow, to the white, flowing beard of a patriarch.
Differing from all the mountains of the South, dense labyrinths of
rhododendrons and pines begin at its base. The traveler enters their
shadows by the road-side, and for two and a half miles, the distance
from Calloway’s to the summit, they are continually with him. Although
the first two miles are often accomplished on horseback, it is too steep
for easy riding. The path winds like the trail of a serpent, brushing by
the bases of low, vine-draped cliffs, around yellow hemlocks, and
disappearing in the rocky channel of a torrent, or into hedges of
rhododendrons.
On the morning that I made the ascent, I was impressed with the
noticeable absence of birds. Not a note from a feathered songster
resounded through the forest. No life was visible or audible, except
occasionally on the cliffs, quick-eyed lizards, of the color of the
rocks, appeared and then disappeared in the mossed crevices of the
stone.
One-half mile from the summit, under a tall, dark cliff whose cold face
seems never to have been kissed by sunlight, bubbles a large spring. Its
water is of a temperature less than eight degrees above the freezing
point. This, as far as is known, is the coldest spring south of New York
state. Here the steepest part of the ascent begins. At intervals old
logs are piled across the narrow trail, and in places rocks have set
themselves on edge. Grasses grow rankly with weeds and ferns. These,
covered with the moisture of the clouds that had dropped with the night
about the forehead of the Grandfather, and only lifted with daylight,
wet the person pushing through them as thoroughly as if he had fallen in
the torrent.
The summit of the mountain is a narrow, ragged ridge, covered with
balsams. If these trees were cleared from the central pinnacle, a
sweeping view toward every point of the compass could be obtained,
without change of position. As it is, they obstruct the vision, and to
see out on every side it is necessary to move to three points, all close
together, known as the Watauga, Caldwell, and Burke views.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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