The Heart of the Alleghanies; or, Western North CarolinaZeigler, Wilbur Gleason
History
The Heart of the Alleghanies; or, Western North Carolina
Zeigler, Wilbur Gleason
Allegheny Mountains; North Carolina -- Description and travel
On the same trip, while we were rounding a bend below Warm Springs, the
hat of a passenger who was standing on the rear platform, was blown from
his head. The train was stopped for a time to allow the unfortunate man
to run back and find the relic. He searched until he found it and then
regained his place.
For several miles after leaving Asheville, low, undulating hills,
sloping upward from the river, fill the landscapes. The water runs deep
and dark around these bends, and no rapids of any consequence break the
smooth surface of the stream; but as further down you go, sweeping along
over the rattling rails, piles of huge drift logs, and clusters of
Titanic boulders appear at intervals, and the country becomes wilder and
more rugged. The foot-hills begin to roll higher, and with steep, stony
fronts staring at each other across the intervening space of waters,
resemble the severed halves of hills thus rent in twain by the impetuous
river. On, on, the scenery becomes more grandly wild and beautiful. Now
passes an old-fashioned country farmhouse--extensive portico bordering
the front, and huge brick chimneys at each end--with dingy barn; pine
log-cabins fast falling to decay around it; rail-fences encircling, and
then meadows, fields, and forests sweeping back on three sides. The old
road lies before the fence, and a stretch of white sand, shaded by
willows and alders, comes down to the restless river. Alexanders, a
wayside station, has long been known as a summer resort. As early as
1826 a hotel, located on the present building’s site, was the only
tavern between Asheville and the Tennessee line.
The old man, smoking his pipe of home-cured tobacco, and daily seated on
the veranda, has not yet become so familiarized with the vision of the
iron horse and whirling coaches as to abandon his custom of walking to
the gate as the train draws in sight. The women appear at the windows;
the inmates of the barn-yard disappear behind the out-buildings.
Then comes a sudden stop to valley scenery, and you are passing between
frowning walls of clay and rock, forming cañons. Then across the stream
ascends a high mountain--the ancient stage-way at its base, and oak and
chestnut forests receding upward--with a deep ravine in its front
holding the waters of a mountain torrent that gleam white through the
rustling foliage of the steep; then woods of pine above; then bare
precipices, festooned with evergreen vines and mosses, set on top with
lonely pines, and, above all, blue unfathomable space.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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