The Heart of the Alleghanies; or, Western North CarolinaZeigler, Wilbur Gleason
History
The Heart of the Alleghanies; or, Western North Carolina
Zeigler, Wilbur Gleason
Allegheny Mountains; North Carolina -- Description and travel
Fourteen miles south of Webster, the county-seat of Jackson, is the most
stupendous waterfall of the mountains. It is said that on certain
evenings, when that dead quiet, prophetic of a storm, dwells in the
valley, the dull roar of the falls can be heard eight miles down the
river. It is on the Tuckasege, about 20 miles below its sources. There
are three ways to reach it; two from above, on either bank, and one from
below, on the west bank. The one way by the east bank is exceedingly
arduous. To approach it from the west bank, the traveler journeys up the
Cullowhe road from Webster. It is a delightful ride, over a picturesque
highway, to where the river is struck at Watson’s. By dismounting there,
you can follow, without difficulty, on foot down stream to the desired
point. This latter approach is preferable to the one undertaken by our
party. We left the highway about three miles below Watson’s. It is a
rough walk of two miles to the waters, half a mile below the falls.
There is no trail to follow, and it requires some activity to scale the
rocks, jump the logs, and crawl through the thickets. Hard by the river,
over a cliff 200 feet high, Rough-running brook pours its waters in rain
and mist. If a certain guide’s story is to be believed, over this cliff,
three deer, closely followed by an eager pack of hounds, once plunged
unwittingly.
Along this part of the river the trout are thick and hungry enough to
afford all the sport you wish; and, if there is a dark sky and dark
water, it will be a gala-day. The scenery of the falls is as
interesting as the fishing. On the left rises a gray, granite cliff,
perfectly plumb with its base, 150 feet above the river. It is somewhat
mantled with green vines and mosses, and a few shaggy cedars cling to
its front. On the right, the cliff is less precipitous, and on it the
forest and its undergrowth springs dense and rank. In front pours the
water, a great sparkling cloud. For 60 or 70 feet down, it is a
perpendicular, unbroken sheet; then a projecting ledge catches and
breaks it into two columns, to fall through the last 25 feet of space.
The frowning cliffs, primeval pines, gigantic boulders, and the vista of
blue sky sighted through the cañon, form a picture of striking
sublimity. If you do not object to getting wet from the mist and rain
created by the cataract, you can stand on a great rock in the whirling
pool and fish for trout and salmon, with success, for hours. The cliff
on the right can be scaled by a boy or man, and the river ascended for a
mile to Watson’s house on the road. However, before reaching the road,
the upper falls are to be passed. Here the scene is different. For
several hundred feet the waters pour over a bare mountain’s face, whose
slant is several degrees from a perpendicular. At its base the stream
widens out, for there are no cliffs to hem it in, and huge boulders
being absent, a level, little lake lies buried in the forests. A fine
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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