The Heart of the Alleghanies; or, Western North CarolinaZeigler, Wilbur Gleason
History
The Heart of the Alleghanies; or, Western North Carolina
Zeigler, Wilbur Gleason
Allegheny Mountains; North Carolina -- Description and travel
Clingman’s dome, 6,660 feet high, the most elevated summit in the range,
is 372 feet higher than Mount Washington of the White Mountains, and
only 47 feet lower than the loftiest peak of the Appalachian system.
From its dome-shaped summit, in close communion with the clouds, and
encircled by a dense grove of balsams, high above the line of scrubby
oak and beech, and higher still above the majestic forests of cherry,
locust, chestnut and the walnut, which clothe its lower slopes, the
observer, as from the basket of a balloon, looks down upon a varied
world spread wide and rolling beneath his feet. To the north lies that
level and fertile portion of East Tennessee, watered by the French Broad
and the Holston. Villages dot the plains; and, afar, the crests of the
Cumberland mountains and their spurs form with the transparent sky a
purple horizon. On the other hand, the lofty heights of the Bald, Black,
Blue Ridge, Balsam, Cowee and Nantihala ranges, with lapping ends and
straggling summits, make a distant, circling, boundary line to a central
ocean of rolling mountains. Directly south, one obtains a wide-spread
prospect of the most wild and picturesque portion of the eastern United
States--that land embraced by the counties of Swain and Macon--the once
romantic habitation and hunting ground of the Cherokee Nation. Here lies
the fertile valley of the upper Little Tennessee, and its picturesque
but almost uninhabited lower reaches; the emerald green Ocona Lufta with
its rich lands; the Indian reservation on the banks of the Soco; the
beautiful Tuckasege, and the narrow and wildly romantic vale down which
courses the Nantihala.
A noticeable feature of these mountains is their smooth, bald summits;
not a sterile baldness like that of ranges higher or in more rigorous
climates, but only bald as far as concerns the growth of trees and
underwood. Atmospheric forces have played their parts on the pinnacles.
What once must have been sharp crowns of rock, have, with time, storm,
and frost, become rounded hillocks. Due, perhaps to the sweeping winds,
the dense balsam forests--the characteristic tree of the loftier heights
of the Smoky, Black, Balsam and Blue Ridge--stop around the brows of the
extreme tops, leaving, oftentimes, perfectly level tracts of treeless
land, in some instances of 1,000 acres in extent. The soil is a black
loam. A heavy sward, green, even in winter, covers these meadows. On
them, around occasionally exposed surfaces of rock, the scarlet,
blossom-bearing rhododendron, and clumps of heather, similar to that on
the Scottish hills, are found. Every spring, thousands of cattle,
branded, and sometimes hung with bells, are turned out on these upland
pastures. It is an unequalled grazing land. Water wells forth even from
the extreme higher edges of the forests, and on every slope are crystal
streams.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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