The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
It is only about a hundred years since the pretensions of the English
sovereigns to the throne of France ceased to be evident, for it was not
until the end of George III's reign that the French fleur-de-lys were
removed from the Royal Arms and disappeared from our coins. There is
still, however, a survival of the lilies of France on the braid of the
drummers in the Guards. White lace with red crowns is what is almost
universally worn by drummers in the Army, but the crown is replaced in
the case mentioned by the fleur-de-lys. Whilst speaking of the Guards,
one may recall that not very long ago a uniform was used by the
solicitor with which these soldiers were, and in the case of the
Coldstream Guards are still, provided. The solicitor, like the medical
officer, wore the cocked hat that is now dying out in the Army, though
generals and aides-de-camp still adopt this most curious outcome of the
Cavalier's beaver. Here and there, as in the case of the surgeon and
veterinary surgeon of the Life Guards, and the medical officers of some
Volunteer regiments, we still see the cocked hat. It flourishes also in
Court dress, it adorns the Lords-Lieutenant and their deputies, besides
maintaining its position among the officers of the Navy.
Fur, the material of which the first clothes of our ancestors were made,
is still seen to a considerable extent in the Army, and is chiefly used
for the construction of busbies. So important was the trade in furs
for military purposes at one time, that bear-skins were classified as
follows: "Officers," or first grade; "Grenadiers," or second grade; and
"unfit for the Army," or third grade. Like all features of dress which
are exaggerated, the big busbies of the Guards have on more than one
occasion afforded material for the caricaturist. Leech depicted the
soldiers of the Brigade of Guards warming their hands and feet in their
busbies, which they used as muffs; and an amusing series of sketches
for the amusement of the young people was published not long ago, in
which the soldier disappeared almost entirely into his busby and became
a sort of Humpty-Dumpty.
Tall hats of the type of our modern silk hats were not unknown in the
Army. Perhaps it may come as a shock to some that Lord Howard of
Effingham is shown in a portrait as wearing a top hat, in shape very
similar to the modern form, but ornamented with a plume of ostrich
feathers. There is, we believe, however, still one top hat which is
served out by the War Office at the present day, and this is worn by the
Chapel Keeper at Wellington Barracks.
Of buttons we have already spoken times out of number, and it may be
interesting to mention here that the various regiments of the Brigade of
Guards may be told by the arrangement of buttons on the tunic. They are
arranged at even distances apart in the Grenadiers, in twos on the
Coldstreams, and in threes on the Scots Guards, and in fours on the
Irish Guards, which were created of recent years.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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