The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
It is true that the King has of recent years opened Parliament in
person, and glimpses may have been had of him in his state robes by a
privileged few, but surely some opportunity should be found of having
more pageants which are real and where there is no need for any
make-believe. Besides having the advantages which we have urged would
accrue from the bringing of a little more colour into our lives, such
meetings would also have a practical result, and be exceedingly good for
trade.
It is obvious that certain costumes, particularly the gay peasant
dresses of the Continent, suit the style, complexion, and colouring of
those who wear them. In races like our own, where we have all kinds of
stages between the very fair blonde and the very dark brunette, the
question of the choice of colours from an artistic point of view is
important. There is also the question of surroundings to be considered,
though nowadays it is not every one who can afford the time, as the late
Mrs. Haweis did, to visit the rooms in which she was invited to spend
an evening, so that the colours of her costume might be arranged to
harmonize with her temporary surroundings.
XXXIII
PATTERNS
ANCIENT DESIGNS--CHECKS AND TARTANS--PARTI-COLOURED CLOTHES--EVOLUTION
OF ORNAMENTATION
The subject of patterns is a very wide one, and we shall content
ourselves with mentioning a few to show how these have survived. When
speaking of studs, we had occasion to mention the swastika or fylfot,
which is probably the earliest known symbol. It is the forerunner of
the cross, and it occurs on ecclesiastical vestments as well as civil
clothes, and the well-known key pattern was derived from it. On Plate
VII, Figure F, it may be seen on the shoulder of the Romano-Egyptian
man, and its use seems to be almost universal. The pine pattern which we
see on shawls is of Eastern origin, and it is said that it originally
was taken from a map of some rivers in Cashmere.
Checks and plaids are among the commonest of our present-day designs,
and the Gauls and those of our forerunners, who flourished at the time
of Cæsar, wore breeches of chequered patterns. In fact, the very name of
breeches is derived from "breac," which means striped or spotted, and in
Gaelic also signifies the trout, which is speckled. Usually the ancient
breeches showed a number of colours, in which, according to Diodorus,
red predominated. Queen Boadicea wore a tunic apparently of plaid,
the colours of which had a mixture of blue, red, and yellow. The real
shepherd's plaid of Scotland is of a plainer character, being merely
black and white, but it is in the special tartans of the Scotch clans
that we find the system of coloured lines and squares carried to great
perfection.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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