The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
If we turn our attention once more to clothes and their effect upon the
outsider, there are questions to consider with regard to what may be
judged from dress. First of all, as to the matter of social status, it
must be confessed that it is very much more difficult nowadays than it
was years ago to make any pronouncements from clothes, though it must be
pointed out that there is a way of wearing clothes, quite irrespective
of their kind, that will help us considerably in making a judgment.
The reason for the levelling up or down as the case may be, is due, of
course, to the standard of luxury having been raised and the price of
materials for clothing having been lowered. As regards the determination
of the profession of the wearer from his or her dress, it must be
said that often we remain quite at a loss in the matter. Bearing and
expression and general action may again afford a clue.
Characteristic costumes are now rare. We can tell the cleric as a rule,
though some, especially those who have belonged to some other profession
previously, will not adopt the collarless coat of black, the choker, or
the white tie.
Servants' liveries may be left out of consideration here, but the man
that has to do with horses proverbially looks "horsey." To the list of
uniforms to which we are accustomed there has been added of recent
years that of the hospital nurse. The garb of various sisterhoods
still catches our eye, and there are certain points which may help us
occasionally in identifying a doctor, a lawyer, a schoolmaster, and an
actor. According to a recent article by a detective in one of the daily
papers,[52] the characteristics and individuality of a man will show
through his clothes, and the writer alluded to, suggests the putting
of a clergyman into a soldier's or a sailor's uniform, or again, the
dressing of a valet in his master's clothes. "He will look quite
different. He will give a fresh character to the clothes, and you will
realize at once that he is a second-hand copy."
Mr. Chevasse says that if you walk down Oxford Street, Piccadilly, or
through the City, you may pick out the ex-army officer, in his mufti
tweed, for his instinct for dress is so ingrained that it is easy to
recognize him. Mr. Chevasse would tell the fashionable physician from
the following signs. His frock coat, scrupulously cut, his silk hat
correctly quiet, which fit in with his sleek manners and the sang-froid
of his superior knowledge. The dress dummy is another type--the man with
the airs of a peacock, whose every article of dress is meant to attract
attention. Of the actor whom one meets in the Strand, it is said that
the odds and ends which he wears are typical of the parts he plays, but
that his real individual character is not disguised as sometimes he
might wish it to be.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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