The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
A muff-chain is a thing which is very often seen at the present day, and
this simple arrangement, coupled with the way in which it is worn (see
Figure 101), may lead us along a very interesting line of research,
which we may follow for a short time. If we look once again at the muff,
we shall see that it is supported by a chain which goes round the back
of the neck, allowing the muff to rest against the front of the body.
This is a primitive method of carrying a burden. Pedlars of old made use
of it, and it is still adopted by the hawker (see Figure 102), because,
if necessary, the hands can remain free, while a modification of the
same principle is seen when the strap takes the form of a baldric, and
passes over one shoulder and under the arm on the other side. In this
way travellers carry their courier-bags (see Figure 103), the school-boy
or girl supports his or her satchel, the fisherman his creel, and
the sportsman his field-glasses. To a baldric also was attached the
quiver of the archer, and sometimes such a band was merely worn as a
decoration. (See Figure 104.) In the illustration which we give, and
which is of the time of Henry V, the baldric is hung with bells like
those which were worn by horses. Possibly a survival of the ornamental
use of the baldric is to be seen in the ribbons of various orders and in
military sashes, though no doubt the bandoleer which carries the pouch
or cartridges of a modern soldier represents the useful baldric. It is
of interest to note that the red or blue cord worn over the cross-belts
of the Life Guards and Horse Guards is a survival of a cord by which the
horn containing powder for priming muskets used to be suspended. In this
connection we might also mention the leather sling of a rifle and the
strap by which the itinerant harpist, in common with the organ-grinder,
carries his instrument.
[Illustration: FIG. 104.--An ornamental baldric of the early fifteenth
century. (Royal MSS. 15 D. 5, after Fairholt.)]
The ordinary belt should not be overlooked, as from it many things, such
as weapons, may be suspended, not to mention pouches, which may carry
ammunition, flint and steel, and so on.
[Illustration: FIG. 105.--A lady's dress, showing the part which is
called a yoke, and recalls a primitive method of carrying burdens.]
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