The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
A little inquiry will soon show that these peculiarities of dress were
those which it pleased the gentlemen of George III's time to adopt. Some
flunkeys belonging to the nobility have their breasts ornamented with
cords known as aiguillettes, and these give them somewhat of a military
appearance, besides reminding us of the old retainers. The coats that go
with the plush breeches and are cut away so as to recall the wings
of a pigeon--hence the name "pouter" coat--are a special feature of
George III's reign. The coachman's coat is usually a little fuller in
the skirt, and carries us back to the time of George II. In another way
this costume is a little older in its style than that of the footman who
powders his own hair instead of wearing a wig like his colleague. (See
Figure 112.)
[Illustration: FIG. 112.--A sheriff's coachman with the full-skirted
coat of the time of George II. (By the courtesy of Messrs. F. T. Prewett
and Co.)]
In connection with the Lord Mayor more ceremony still is maintained.
His coachmen and footmen appear in all the glory of three-cornered
hats, which are decorated with feathers, and their coats are highly
ornamented. They are representatives of the very fine gentlemen of
George III's time.
On the back of the collar of the Lord Mayor's coachman, we find an
arrangement that looks like an elaborately made rosette of black ribbon
(see Figure 113). This is a survival of the bag-wig, of which we shall
have occasion to speak again when dealing with Court and military dress,
so that we need not go into further details here with regard to this
curious vestige. (See page 229, Figure 143.)
[Illustration: FIG. 113.--The wig-bag (a survival of the bag-wig) now
seen on the back of the collar of the Lord Mayor's coachman.]
This is a progressive age, in spite of the many survivals which still
flourish, and when we come to consider the costume of the modern
manservant who attends at table, or the waiter in the restaurant, we
find that he has come out of his generation, as it were, and has adopted
the dress of his masters before they have themselves discarded it.
Confusion has arisen through this before now, and it has been suggested
that if ornamental buttons were worn by the man who serves, the
difficulty would be overcome.
The writer well remembers being amused when standing in a room at a
well-known restaurant, where a private dinner was to be given, to notice
the change which suddenly came over the dress of the waiters. When the
latter first arrived they had black cloth buttons on their coats, while
in a few minutes' time, these same garments were adorned with brass
buttons bearing the initials of the firm that provided the dinner.
Inquiry soon elicited the fact that the men carried with them small
brass cases which were sprung on to their ordinary buttons, and at once
gave them the appearance of being on the staff, and showed that they
were waiters.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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