The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
The costume of jockeys is an instance of parti-coloured dress which,
apart from the Stage, is now chiefly worn in connection with sports
such as football and racing. Some parti-coloured garments made their
appearance early in English history, as we shall see when dealing with
the subject of patterns.
The cockade is now a particular feature of the liveried servant, and as
the story of its evolution is of a particularly striking nature, we will
consider it in a special chapter.
Here and there we find survivals of the old beadle, with his
three-cornered hat and his long gown with its curious capes and its
bright edging. To find the original wearer of such garments we shall
have to look about at the end of the seventeenth century. The watch then
wore very large coats with many capes, and from these was developed that
of the beadle. No doubt colours and other ornamentation were produced so
as to bring the dress of the beadle more into the line with liveries and
to give him a more ornamental and imposing appearance.
We might also mention that the beadle, to whom we shall once more
allude, still makes his appearance and plays his part in the Punch and
Judy show.
When we recall the many and varied liveries which the porters belonging
to the various places of amusement and business establishments now wear,
we cannot help drawing attention to the magnitude of the problem which
would confront any one who desired to trace the origin of their clothes.
In one detail or another we see the remains of an old livery, while
turning from these we find a gaily coloured plastron borrowed from a
Hussar uniform, and besides the cap there are a host of other features
which have been taken from military and civilian dress.
Railway porters if not menials are the servants of the companies which
employ them, and there is one feature of their dress which is worthy of
note. It will be seen that their waistcoats, although generally built
on the same plan as that of the ordinary individual and having a linen
back, are provided with sleeves. It is truly a coat which comes to the
waist, such as we shall speak of when dealing with the dress of the
Guards and other regiments, and it is usually the outermost garment of
the porter.
If we now turn to the costume of the gentleman, we shall find a very
good instance of what Mr. Paley Baildon claims to be done whenever a
new garment is adopted. He says that it is always put on over all the
others. In the case of the ordinary civilian we have the waistcoat,
which was originally an outer garment. Then comes the frock-coat or
surtout, which at the beginning of the nineteenth century was an
overcoat, and over this again in cold weather the modern ulster or
top-coat is put.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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