The cockades worn by the Royal servants on the front of their three-cornered hats on state occasions (see Figure 120) are large. The rosette has points, while the upper part, or fan, shows them in profusion, and there is no silk bow. The Royal cockade for semi-state has a simple fan, while that worn on the silk hat at ordinary times (see Figure 121) has no fan, but the edges are cut into points and there is a bow of ribbon in the centre. [Illustration: FIG. 118.--Treble cockade used by Chelsea pensioners.] [Illustration: FIG. 119.--The Regent cockade.] [Illustration: FIG. 120.--Royal cockade for state occasions.] [Illustration: FIG. 121.--Ordinary Royal cockade.] The ordinary fan cockade is used in various sizes, and is shown in Figure 116. This is called the "treble," and has a bow of ribbon as a rule. A curious variety worn by the Chelsea Pensioners has no ribbon, while a segment is cut from the lower part of the rosette (see Figure 118). The only other variety with regard to shape that we have now to mention is the "regent" cockade, which is exactly like the treble, but without the fan. (See Figure 119.) [Illustration: Two stages in the evolution of the chaperon. FIG. 122.--Combined hood and cape. FIG. 123.--Enlargement of the peak of the hood to form the liripipe. (After Calthrop, by kind permission of Messrs. A. and C. Black.)] It appears that the cockade can lay claim to have been descended from a very ancient and curious form of head-dress, and Mr. Calthrop[19] has traced in a very interesting way the development of this, as well as of the cockade which is a survival of it in miniature. The head-dress in question was called a chaperon, and came into favour in the time of Richard II. It was itself derived from a hood and a cape which were originally worn separately, but afterwards the two were joined together for convenience, so that they could both be donned at the same time. Fashion lengthened out the peak of the hood extravagantly until it reached nearly to the ground, and then the prolongation was called a liripipe. Next it was ordained that the whole arrangement should be twisted up round the head, so that what was in the beginning a cape with jagged edges stuck out on one side like a cock's comb. [Illustration: Further development of the chaperon. FIG. 124.--Cape and liripipe made into a head-dress that can be altered at will. FIG. 125.--A chaperon ready made up, in order to save trouble. (After Calthrop, by kind permission of Messrs. A. and C. Black.)]