The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
The ceremonies connected with death and burial are no exception to the
rule which we have laid down, that on solemn and important occasions
primitive customs and costumes are most commonly to be met with. The
making of clothes from bark has come to have a special significance
in the case of races which no longer adopt this in everyday life. The
Kayans of Borneo now ordinarily wear smart foreign stuffs which they
get from traders; but when they go into mourning they discard these
garments, and return once more to the old native garment of bark
cloth. The putting on of sackcloth is no doubt a similar custom, and
dishevelling of locks is also in keeping with it.
Among the many curious customs connected with funeral rites which
survive in civilized countries, the adoption of some kind of mourning
dress is very general. Sombre black has come to be associated in our
minds with mourning, but other colours are used among other nations,
and even in this country. The drapery with which the hats of the hired
mourners at a child's funeral are veiled are white instead of black.
White ostrich feathers may appear on the horses' heads, and white adorns
their trappings. Royalty is still privileged to have a special mourning
colour--purple is used at state funerals, and grey is looked upon as
half-mourning.
In China white is the colour used instead of black, and other Oriental
nations wear yellow. In modern Egypt, at a funeral, the women, whether
relatives or servants of the deceased, are distinguished by a strip of
linen or muslin bound round the head and tied in a single knot behind.
This stuff is usually of a blue colour. The women of ancient Egypt, as
shown on the walls of tombs, wore a similar bandage round their head.
Excessive mourning is now becoming a thing of the past, and there is no
need now for such laws as were made at the end of the fifteenth century
to restrict extravagance in mourning attire. Nowadays men may follow the
custom observed by those in the army and those who wear Highland dress
of putting a black band round their arm. At the most they wear black
clothes and put a wider band round their hats. Among women it is only
widows who wear a special costume. It is not a becoming one, though
sometimes a smartness is imparted to it that is a little out of keeping
with the idea of mourning. Now a widow's dress is called weeds, though
this term at one time signified the whole of any woman's costume.
For the origin of the widow's veil we must go back to mediæval times,
when the dress of widow ladies was similar to that of the convent. It
was the custom of elderly ladies whose husbands had died to become what
is called vowesses, and to go into seclusion. A relic perhaps of the
practice is to be found in the kind of prejudice which still exists in
the minds of some people against second marriages. The white cuffs of
the widow recall those of the nurse, and similar ones are used by some
members of the legal profession as part of their mourning.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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