The Highland bagpipe : $b its history, literature, and music: with some account of the traditions, superstitions, and anecdotes relating to the instrument and its tunesManson, W. L. (William Laird)
History
The Highland bagpipe : $b its history, literature, and music: with some account of the traditions, superstitions, and anecdotes relating to the instrument and its tunes
Manson, W. L. (William Laird)
Bagpipe
When a drone tunes too far up, that is when the tuning mark is higher
than the joint can be raised, it will be too sharp to admit of its
chording with the chanter reed. In that case the reed should be lowered—
_i.e._, given a smaller catch in the joint or drone. Should it still
prove too sharp, the tuning string should be moved backwards towards the
end placed in the joint. This ought to correct any ordinary reed. Should
it fail, the reed must be too short and cannot be amended except by
altering the chanter reed, which should never be done for such a
purpose, the chanter reed being always first set and the others set to
it.
When the tuning mark is too far down for the joint, and the tone cannot
be rendered sufficiently sharp, the required sound will in most cases be
produced by moving the tuning string towards the point of the tongue.
Should this fail, the reed may be put further into the joint of the
drone, or a very little cut off the end which goes into the joint.
When reeds have a rough, roaring sound they may be rectified by bringing
the tuning string nearer the point of the tongue, as before described. A
reed may have a burring, squealing, or double tone when blown up to the
full pitch of the chanter reed. This may be caused by the tuning string
being too tight, or it may be caused by the tongue being too heavy, in
which case the proper note may be obtained by cutting one or more
notches across the tongue. This will weaken the false sound, and with
regular playing it will disappear.
It must be remembered that over-blowing a reed will cause it to “dirl,”
and half covering any of the holes will cause the reeds to squeal. In
blowing, also, if the regular strength of wind is withheld from the
reeds, even for an instant, they will stop, or “hiccough,” as pipers
term it. The results of these mistakes must not be attributed to the
reeds.
An old reed may be made to wear much longer by putting one or more hairs
under the tongue where the tuning string is placed and using a new
tuning string.
A reed is said to be “water-locked” when it has become soft through
continuous use. Drone reeds only are liable to become water-locked, and
should never be over-played. When the mischief is done they must be laid
aside until properly dry.
Wet reeds should be taken out before the pipes are laid past, and the
water blown out of them. They should then be rolled between the hand and
knee and the tongue slightly lifted, after which they should be replaced
in the joints. Reeds should not be exposed to the air to dry. A common
bottle makes an excellent receptacle for them.
Young pipers should on no account tamper or experiment with their reeds,
unless they are perfectly certain of what they are to do, why they are
to do it, and what the result will be.
VI.—THE BAG, AND HOW TO KEEP IT.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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